Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
2009 (Excellent)
“This is the type of vintage consumers will love as the wines are fruit-forward, full-bodied, relatively high in alcohol with low acidity and sweet, well-integrated tannins. The downside to this vintage is that even though the flowering was regular and rapid, the berries were small and the overall crop size suffered considerably because of summer’s drought.
Production in 2009 was about 20% lower than in an abundant year such as 2000 or 2007. It is probably 40% lower than what was achieved in 2011, which looks to be a repeat of 2000 and perhaps 1990, assuming the weather continues to be dry and sunny during the harvest. (As a postscript – it was!)
Unquestionably, the southern Rhône has enjoyed a trifecta of top vintages that should keep prices stable as well as offer a flood of high quality wines from this treasure trove of value-priced as well as interesting wines that are wonderful matches with an assortment of cuisines.
2010 (Great)
This is a great vintage that come close in quality to 2007 in the southern Rhône. Some producers think 2010 eclipses 2007 because of the wines’ vivid freshness and focus. Throughout the southern Rhône, the hallmarks of the vintage are very dense purple, sometimes even blue/black colors as well as higher acid levels that have not been seen since 2004 and 2001. In fact, 2010’s paradox is that I can’t remember a vintage so concentrated, powerful and rich that also has such zesty acidity. The pHs are lower across the board than in 2009 and 2007, and the acids are higher. The downside is that following the relatively moderate to small crop in 2009, the 2010 crop was very small, largely because 30-40% of the Grenache crop (the dominant grape varietal of the southern Rhône) was lost due to coulure (grapes falling off naturally after budding) and millerandage (mixed berry size). This has undoubtedly contributed to the level of concentration in the final wines. However, if a producer usually makes 1,000 cases in a normal vintage, his 2010 production will be closer to 500-700 cases.
Weather conditions were nearly as ideal as they were in 2007 with cool nights (which kept the acids up) and warm days. There was rarely any excessive heat, and the often frequent rain events that begin with the fall equinox never materialized. Average Mistral winds were present, but not as excessive as they were in 2008 and 2007.
The 2010s will have significant aging potential, which is obvious in the level of tannins, but the tannins are sweet with exceptional elegance and finesse. The ratio of high extractive and phenolic (highly reactive chemical compounds contributing to flavour and colour) skins to the juice has produced wines of extraordinary intensity, freshness, aromatic potential and obvious longevity. This is another great vintage that offers an embarrassment of riches for this region that has enjoyed a succession of extraordinary years. Since 1998, the top years have been 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003 (for a dozen or so estates), 2005, 2006 (which is very underrated and probably the finest value among all appellations of the last 15 or so years), 2007 (the greatest vintage I have ever tasted in the southern Rhône), 2009 and 2010 (which is very close to the quality to 2007). Add the possibility of a trifecta in 2011, and readers can see why more and more importers and consumers are beating a path to these outstanding wines that offer a terrific ratio in terms of value and pleasure, as well as the potential for moderate evolution in a wine collection.”
Robert Parker Rates Lauds the 2009s from Domaine Roger Sabon
Mr. Parker discusses the 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape from Domaine Roger Sabon in the same issue of the ‘Wine Advocate’. These wines were offered a couple of months ago and are on their way to Toronto (those who ordered will be glad they did). If we receive sufficient additional interest (e-mail me at jaswalker@arthursellers.com) we will see if there are any more of these terrific wines left at the winery and if so will offer them again.
“This estate has been at the top of its game for many years and any partisan of Rhône Valley wines (especially the southern Rhône) who has not yet tried a wine from Domaine Roger Sabon should make every effort to do so. They produce four separate Châteauneuf du Pape cuvées and have hit home runs in both 2009 and 2010, the finest back-to-back vintages I have ever tasted from this 42-arce estate run by the large Sabon family, in this case, Jean-Jacques, Julien, Gilbert and Denis. They own 15 parcels spread throughout the appellation, most of them concentrated in the western and eastern sectors north of the village. The brilliant 2009s are among the finest of the vintage.
The least expensive offering, the dense ruby/plum/purple-colored 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Olivets (91/100) (80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault aged in wood foudres or smaller oak barrels) is a classic example of Provence. Lush, dense, raspberry, fig, plum and cherry notes intermixed with lavender and underbrush emerge from this full-bodied, ripe juicy, succulent, seductive wine. It should drink well for at least a decade.
Don’t forget; please drop me a note jaswalker@arthursellers.com if you would like us to offer these great 2009 Domaine Roger Sabon Châteauneuf du Pape once again.
Coming soon from Arthur’s Cellar Our next featured wines will be the vaunted Gigondas from Domaine du Cayron and then the terrific Barbera d’Asti from Poderi Rosso Giovanni.
We would be most grateful if you would pass this note on to anyone you think might be interested in Robert Parker’s take on the 2009 and 2010 vintages in the southern Rhône.
Many thanks and cheers,
Jim and Hélène www.arthursellers.com jaswalker@arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca
