“The wine of Uzès is the best in the realm.”
(Racine – 1661)

Every once in a while we discover a ‘new’ winery that we can hardly wait to tell you about. Such is the case with Domaine Camp Galhan, producers of divine red and white Vin de Pays Duché d’Uzès and Vin de Pays d’Oc from the heart of the Languedoc. As Robert Parker remarked in issue 173 of his ‘Wine Advocate’ (he always seems to discover notable wines before I do), “Lionel and Alain Pourquier defy their entitlement to only a Vin de Pays appellation with wines of extraordinary value.”

Lionel Pourquier

We met Lionel Pourquier, (owner and operator of the winery along with his brother Alain), when he was sharing a booth with Patrick Chabrier of Domaine Chabrier Fils at last winter’s ViniSud wine fair in Montpellier. As is the norm with Patrick, things were completely chaotic at his side of the booth, so we decided to try some of Lionel’s wines to pass time till some sense of calm returned.  We were completely enchanted by these fresh, flavourful, obviously well-made wines. To be certain that we weren’t being influenced by the prevailing mayhem, we subsequently asked Lionel to provide us with some samples to try under more tranquil circumstances. This we did a couple of months ago in Sarlat in the Dordogne while scouting out a new locale for Hélène’s tours of France. Consumed with some simple fare (yah, right – figs stuffed with foie gras, roast duck, local pâté, fresh baguette, etc.) we found them to be even more enjoyable than before! So, we are now delighted to bring them to you – two fresh and zesty whites, two full and satisfying reds and a special mixed case of all four. Bring on the foie gras stuffed figs! We hope you enjoy these marvellous wines as much as we do.

Domaine Camp Galhan

Located near the village of Ribaute les Tavernes, not too far from bustling Uzès, the Camp Galhan vineyard is situated high above the banks of the Gardon River in the foothills of the bucolic Cévennes

Mountains. The winery gets its name from the Roman camp, “Galhan”, that was located next to the present winery. The 40 hectare property and vineyards have been in the Pourquier family since the early twentieth century and they have long be renowned for their superb grapes that were sent each year to the local co-op. But Lionel tired of giving his great grapes to the co-op only to have them make mediocre wine. So, in 2001 he built a modern winery into the side of a hill, designed so that gravity moves the grapes and juice during vinification (thus avoiding the use of much harsher mechanical pumps) and started to produce his own wines.

But, as they say, at least eighty percent of great wine- making occurs in the vineyard. Lionel has worked hard to isolate the best vineyard sites in the hill sides above the valley and to update his winemaking techniques. He farms his vineyards using organic methods in the ‘lutte raisonnée’ manner, and green harvests in the spring to decrease yields. Lionel then hand selects only the best fruit to go into his wines, which most recognize as being among the very best in the region (along with Domaine Chabrier Fils and Les Vignes du Lys in my opinion!).

By the way, Lionel also grows durum wheat in the valley which he sells to high-end pasta producers, mostly in Italy. He is currently president of the durum wheat growers association for the region.

The Glorious Wines of Domaine Camp Galhan

We are truly delighted to bring you the vinous treasures from Domaine Camp Galhan. There are two whites – the 2011 Amanlie Blanc and 2009 Ripa Alta Blanc; two reds – the 2011 Pérassières Rouge and 2010 Les Grès Rouge, and; The Camp Galhan Sampler that gives you a taste of all four. Each is drinking wonderfully now, but the reds will reward you with a year or two of patience.  They come in convenient six-bottle cases. We will be taking your orders to the LCBO on Friday, November 30^th.  

2011 Amanlie Blanc -  14.0% Alc./Vol.                                             $20/$120 per case of six The lovely 2011 Amanlie Blanc is made from 70% Viognier, 25% Roussanne and 5% Grenache Blanc. The vines average 18 years of age and the average yield is only 30 hl/ha. This delicious Vin de Pays du Duché d’Uzès is a pure straw colour with glints of lime green. On the nose there are pronounced aromas of peaches, grapefruit, rich tropical fruit,  white flowers, acacia and wet pebbles.  It is very gentle in the mouth, flavourful with excellent balance, dry and crisp. This is simply delicious – jam-packed with mouth-watering  flavours, beautifully made and completely satisfying. Ready to drink as soon as you get it, it will go wonderfully with roasted chicken, lobster bisque, fried fish, vegetarian pasta dishes and most shellfish. I just love it! Order your glorious white wonder now.

2009 Ripa Alta Blanc - 14.0% Alc./Vol.                                            $23/$138 per case of six The terrific 2009 Ripa Alta Blanc is made from 80% Chardonnay and 20% Viognier, a heavenly combination.  The vines are 12 years old (don’t let their relative youth dissuade you) and the yield is a very low 30 hl/ha. This amazing Vin de Pays d’Oc is a lovely golden colour and offers up pleasant aromas of peaches, pineapple and honey with mineral aftertastes. This splendid white is beautifully balanced and medium bodied with lovely acidity and a long, creamy finish. It is a very well made wine that will go splendidly with creamed poultry dishes, coconut shrimp (oh, sweet heaven!), lobster Newburg or au gratin (drool!) and mussels.  Order your over-achieving Vin de Pays blanc now.

2011 Pérassières Rouge - 14.0% Alc./Vol.                                        $19/$114 per case of six The 2011 Pérassières is composed of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, the mainstay varietals of southern France. The vines average 25 years of age and the yield is only 45 hl/ha. This Vin de Pays du Duché d’Uzès is a brick red colour and offers up aromas of black currants, new leather, pepper, cherry jam and garrigue. In the mouth it is smooth, full, medium-bodied and lively with excellent length. This luscious, unfiltered wine seems to have been bestowed upon us by the barbeque gods.  Order your classic southern French wine now.

2010 Les Grès Rouge - 14.0% Alc./Vol.                                             $22/$132 per case of six The 2010 Les Grès Rouge is made from 100% Syrah averaging 13 years of age with a yield of but 35 hl/ha. This Vin de Pays du Duché d’Uzès is a deep purple/red colour and throws out beguiling aromas of leather, tar, blackberries and wet stones. In the mouth it is full, round and supple, beautifully balanced with a spicy aftertaste. My tasting notes conclude with “lovely stuff”. This tour de force achievement from Lionel Pourquier will go just perfectly with a rack of lamb, mushroom tart, medium cheese and roast rabbit. We adored it! Order your completely amazing red from Domaine Camp Galhan now.

The ‘Camp Galhan’ Sampler  - 14.0% Alc./Vol.                               $22/$132 per case of six This is a great way to try all of the Domaine Camp Galhan vinous treasures. You get a bottle of the 2011 Amanlie Blanc, two bottles of the 2009 Ripa Alta Blanc, a bottle of the 2011 Pérassières Rouge and two bottles of the 2010 Les Grès Rouge. I do hope that every one of our members will order this Sampler to taste for themselves the great values that come from southern France. Order your six-pack of pure drinking pleasure now.

Please note that the above prices include a paltry fee of $1 per bottle to cover the selfless work we do on behalf of our members.

Updated Robert Parker Ratings for 2010 Domain Roger Sabon Châteauneuf In his latest edition of the ‘Wine Advocate’, Robert Parker refined his ratings for the four Châteauneuf du Pape from Domaine Roger Sabon: Les Olivets – 91; Cuvée Réserve – 93; Cuvée Prestige – 96, and; Les Secret des Sabon – 99. Jean-Jacques Sabon with his Pipette  His comments about Jean-Jacques Sabon are also worth noting, “I witnessed and was profoundly touched by the following story and decided to share it with readers. One of the Sabon brothers, Jean-Jacques died last year after a heroic fight with cancer. I knew Jean-Jacques well as he was one of the first vignerons to embrace me, and help educate me about the different terroirs, styles of wine, and the history of Châteauneuf du Pape. I remember taking a dear friend to visit the Domaine Roger Sabon in 2002. My friend wanted to visit Roger Sabon because he had just lost his beautiful wife after a long battle with cancer. As we were tasting in the cellars, my friend wanted to taste Le Secret des Sabon, a wine his wife thought might be some sort of miracle cure for her terminal disease. Not surprisingly, when Jean-Jacques took his pipette and poured a sample for my friend, he broke down. As Jean-Jacques and I walked to a distant corner of the cave to give him some privacy, Jean-Jacques said that never in his life had he seen a person moved by a wine he and his family had made. He said it gave him goose pimples, and he himself nearly lost it emotionally as did I. It was a rare and revealing look at an extraordinary man. Jean-Jacques Sabon will be forever missed as he did so much for the appellation.”

If you know anyone who would be interested in some glorious wines from the south of France, we would greatly appreciate it if you would pass this bulletin on to them.

Cheers,

Jim and Hélèn
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
hbuisson@ofrance.ca