Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
We are delighted to bring you the very good 2011 Châteauneuf du Pape from Domaine Roger Sabon as well as their 2012 Rhône and Lirac By Roger Sabon and white Châteauneuf du Pape. These are extremely fine wines from very decent vintages created by a top notch winery. Simply stated, wine from southern France doesn’t get much better than this. And, for world class wines, the prices are terrific; they are a fraction of the cost of equivalent Bordeaux or Burgundy.
Robert M. Parker, Jr. on the 2011 Vintage in the Southern Rhône “These wines (the 2011 Southern Rhônes) have nowhere near the density or power of either 2010 or 2007. Nor is 2011 as consistently excellent as the 2009s, 2006s or 2005s. Nevertheless, they are charming, fruit-forward, front end-loaded, soft, round wines that are surprising high in alcohol as well as consumer friendly. From the good estates, they can also be very seductive. Given their fruit-forward characteristics, they should be consumed in their first 5-10 years of life. The entire Southern Rhône remains France’s most diverse and rewarding treasure trove of both value and greatness to wine consumers.”
Domaine Roger Sabon Domaine Roger Sabon came into being in 1952 when the family vineyards were split into three distinct entities (the other two being Domaine Chante-Cigale and Clos Mont Olivet). Robert M. Parker, Jr., who awarded their 1988 vintage a perfect 100 rating, the first Châteauneuf-du-Pape so honoured, has this to say about Domaine Roger Sabon. “This estate has been at the top of its game for many years and any partisan of Rhône Valley wines (especially the southern Rhône) who has not yet tried a wine from Domaine Roger Sabon should make every effort to do so. They produce four separate Châteauneuf du Pape cuvées and have hit home runs both in 2009 and 2010, the finest back-to-back vintages I have ever tasted from this 42-acre estate run by the large Sabon family, in this case, Jean-Jacques (recently deceased), Julien, Gilbert and Denis (Note: the helm is currently being turned over to the succeeding and equally capable generation, Didier Négron, Delphine and Julien Sabon). They own 15 parcels spread throughout the appellation, most of them concentrated in the western and eastern sectors north of the village.
The domaine occupies about seventeen hectares of prime vineyards in some of the best sites of Châteauneuf - Les Cabrières, La Crau, Courthezon and Nalys, and all with "galets roulés" the sizeable white stones that soak up the sun and release the warmth to the vines at night. The vines are a minimum age of 50 years, with 90-year-old vines for the Cuvée Prestige. They are mainly Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre, but Muscardin, Terret, Vaccarèse and Counoise are also included in their Cuvée Prestige. From 1997, all of the grapes have been totally destemmed. The fermentation takes place in small cement vats and small stainless steel cuves, with pumping over and a cuvaison that lasts for 20 days at a temperature of between 30° and 34°. The wine is matured in foudres and used barriques, and receives neither fining nor filtration.
The Domaine Roger Sabon Wines on Offer We were at the winery a couple of weeks ago where we found Didier Négron semi-patiently waiting for the 2013 harvest to begin. This pause in his usually hectic schedule provided us with ample time to thoroughly sample the wines we are now offering. They are truly lovely and fine examples of what a great vigneron can produce in the Southern Rhône.
We are delighted to offer you four red Châteauneuf du Pape from the 2011 vintage - ‘Les Olivets’, ‘Réserve’, ‘Prestige’ and ‘Le Secret des Sabon’ as well as the white 2012 ‘Renaissance’. Each comes in a six-bottle case. The reds also come in magnum format – three magnums to the case. And, Les Olivets is also available in half-bottles (we have had a number of requests for smaller bottles). Can’t make up your mind which to select? Why not try them all in the Sabon Super Sampler?
We also have the 2012 Rhône By Roger Sabon and 2012 Lirac By Roger Sabon for your drinking pleasure.
While the winery has been generous to us, quantities are strictly limited. So please order early to avoid disappointment. These wines are being offered at very favourable prices – consider that a 2010 Château de Beaucastel, rated 92-94 by Mr. Parker currently sells at the LCBO for $88.95 the bottle! We will be taking your orders for these fine wines to the LCBO on Friday, October 25th.
The following tasting notes and ratings by Robert M. Parker Jr. come from Issue 203 of his ‘Wine Advocate’ – 30/10/2012; those from James Molesworth of the ‘Wine Spectator Insider’ are from Vol. 9, No. 35, Sept. 4, 2013 and; Jonathon Livingstone-Learmouth from his tasting of December 12, 2012.
2012 Rhône By Roger Sabon – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $21/$126 for 6 The 2012 Rhône By Roger Sabon is a truly lovely wine! It is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault. The grapes were destemmed and hand sorted. It is a dense ruby colour with pure aromas of raspberries, ripe cherries, garrigue, Provençal spices and minerals. It is well-balanced with silky tannins and lots of red and black fruit flavours – it is very elegant! It will go perfectly with grilled meats, barbeques and charcuterie. It is ready to drink now and will continue to do so for another four to five years. Order your delicious Rhône now.
2012 Lirac By Roger Sabon – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $26/$156 for 6 Robert Parker notes that Domaine Roger Sabon is one of only five “Excellent” Lirac producers. He goes on to say, “A sleepy village next to Tavel, Lirac appears to be emerging from the shadows of oblivion. More and more of the top estates are producing better and better wines.”
The 2012 Lirac By Roger Sabon is made from 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Cinsault. It is aged in oak foudres for about six months. This lovely, deep purple wine exhibits zesty aromas of sweet raspberries, blackberries and garrigue with a hint of pepper and tobacco. The red and black fruit persist in the mouth. It is elegantly complex, very long with a beautiful smooth tannic structure. It will go wonderfully with roasts and wild game. This needs a bit of time in the decanter before consuming. It will keep happily and evolve nicely over the next seven years or so. This is a wonderful wine and a fine example of the best of the southern Rhône. Order yours now.
2012 Châteauneuf du Pape ‘Renaissance’ Blanc – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $49/$294 for 6 2012 was a tricky vintage in the southern Rhône but this didn’t keep the Sabons from producing some really terrific wines. This fabulous white is one of them. Made from 50% Roussanne and completed with Clairette, Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc, this beauty offers up aromas of honeysuckle, pears, peaches and fresh flowers that seem to leap from the glass. It is a full-bodied stunner, crisp, clean, subtle and elegant that sees no oak. This wine is meant to be drunk young – over the next year or two.
“Quite a pale yellow; honey-peach, prominent nose with wax and oiliness, an attractive combination and very noticeable. There is light undertow of banana and a bit of dampness of fruit, a “high” aspect. The palate starts carefully, offers dried fruits, apricot. A mandarin tang gives it kick after half way, a handsome mineral note. The ripeness is appealing and measured. Style and elegance sought over power here. It ends firmly and can run into a second stage. It is a bit subdued on the finish. 13.5°. 2020-21 Sept 2012. Rating 4 stars” – John Livingstone-Learmouth
“Features creamy and stony notes, with melon, peach and chamomile at the core, lined with blanched almond and salted butter flavors. Drink now through 2015. Rating 93 points; $55.” James Molesworth, the ‘Wine Spectator’ What a treat!! Order a real treasure now.
‘Les Olivets’ comes from an 8.5 hectare plot of vines averaging 40 to 60 years of age. It is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and is aged in oak foudres for six to eight months.
“Dark robe. Reduction in a drawn in, meaty, game backdrop; the main fruit is blackberry, has a treacle sweetness and a note of licorice. The grapes picking has been late, to accentuate its ripeness. The palate shows a high octane ripeness, is fluid and round, flavoured by blackberry. Late tannin enters carefully. It is pretty much all together through the palate, is going to be notably round and plump as it ages towards 5 years old, for instance. It spreads its coulis style fruit across the palate, the tannins are fine grained. It is pretty long. A bit of a fruit bomb – decant this. From spring 2015. 2026-28 Dec 2012. Rating – Four Stars” – John Livingstone-Learmouth
“The 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Olivets is a blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Cinsault aged in foudre. Its attractive notes of kirsch liqueur, sweet roasted herbs, lavender and spice box are followed by a medium to full-bodied, luscious wine. Drink over the next 7-8 years.” Rating (88-90) Robert M. Parker, Jr. Order your 750 ml bottles now; or your Magnums; or your Half-Bottles.
The “Réserve” comes from a small three hectare piece of land with vines averaging sixty to seventy-five years of age. It is made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and is aged for twelve months in oak barrels ranging from two to four years of age.
“Dark red. The bouquet gives a raspberry fruit aroma with a game, hang dog implication; the fruit is ripe and resembles mulled berries. The debut of the palate is marked by a juicy, fluid, savoury red fruit, followed by a nutty crunch of late tannin, which is not yet integrated, but will achieve that. It is round in the 2011 style, a Regular Guy style wine. It closes down on the finish. From 2014. 2022-24” Dec 2012 – Rating – Four Stars – John Livingstone-Learmouth
“The 2011 Châteauneuf du Pape Réserve is a sleeper of the vintage. One of the strongest 2011s I tasted, it possesses a surprising level of concentration and intensity. Its deep plum/ruby/purple color is followed by copious notes of garrigue, licorice, cassis and kirsch. Rich and forward, with low acidity as well as sweet, ripe tannin, it can be enjoyed over the next 7-8 years.” Rating (90-92) Robert M. Parker, Jr. Order your 750 ml bottles now; or your Magnums.
Grenache is the predominant grape in the blend and is joined by Syrah, Cinsault, Terret, Counoise, Vaccarese and Muscardin – all from vines averaging ninety years of age. It was matured in 40 hectolitre barrels and in oak casks for 16 to 18 months.
“Rock solid, with dark plum, fig and boysenberry fruit at the core, lined with perfumy notes of roasted bay, chestnut and black tea. Ample grip lies underneath. Best from 2015 through 2030.” Rating 93 points; $80. James Molesworth, the ‘Wine Spectator’
“The fruit comes from nearly 100-year-old vines and aging takes place in a combination of old foudres and new oak (for the Syrah and Mourvedre components). Made in a quasi-modern style, it exhibits a dense plum/purple color, smoky vanillin, graphite, blackberry, cassis, coffee bean, herb and roasted meat-like notes, and a rich, full, juicy, succulent style. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.” Rating (91-93) Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Order your 750 ml bottles now; or your Magnums.
This is Châteauneuf du Pape that is as good as it gets. It is sourced from vines that are over one hundred years old and is produced only in very good years in very small quantities – a true collector’s treasure.
“Features linzer torte, boysenberry and blueberry coulis flavors allied to ample, silky and seamless structure and backed by a gorgeously perfumy finish of black tea and incense. Offers a beguiling Pinot Noir-like profile, with lovely length and mouthfeel. Best from 2015 to 2030.” Rating 95 points; $230. James Molesworth, the ‘Wine Spectator’
“A Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon 2011 was produced, and it is a candidate for the wine of the vintage. This superb effort displays a dense ruby/purple color along with notes of charcoal, camphor, black truffles, roasted meats, creme de cassis and blackberries. Brutally young and unevolved, which is atypical for a 2011, but super-rich and full, it should last an uncommonly long time for a wine from this vintage – possibly 15-20 years.” Rating (92-94) Robert M. Parker, Jr. Order your 750 ml bottles now; or your Magnums.
Please note that there is a $1 per bottle handing fee included in the above prices.
If you know any fanciers of superb Châteauneuf du Pape, we would really appreciate it if you would pass this note on to them.
Cheers!
Jim and Hélène jaswalker@arthursellers.com www.arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca www.ofrance.ca
