Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
Domaine Palon
Domaine Palon is a real family affair with a long grape growing tradition. Valérie and Léopold Palon were grape growers in Gigondas and their son Jean founded the Cave Coopérative de Gigondas and served as its administrator from 1956 to 1978. His son, Jean-Pierre took over the reins of the co-op in 1978 (Jean-Pierre’s wife Annie was the financial director) and ran it until 2001, all the while selling his grapes to the same co-op. After Jean-Pierre and Annie’s son Sébastien graduated from oenology school and worked in various vineyards including some in South Africa, the family decided to leave the co-op and start making their own wines. 2003 was their first vintage.
The Wines of Domaine Palon We are delighted offer you the elegant southern Rhônes from Domaine Palon – 2012 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Cuvée Esparza’; 2012 Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’; 2011 Vacqueyras Rouge in regular and half-bottles; 2011 Gigondas Rouge in regular bottles, the 2012 in half-bottles and; as a real treat, the wondrous 2010 Vacqueyras and Gigondas in a six-magnum sampler. The Palons have also created a regular-bottle sampler for us – three bottles each of the 2011 Vacqueyras and Gigondas Rouge. We will be taking your orders to the LCBO on Friday, November 29th.
Rating Recent Vintages from the Southern Rhône Here’s how the ‘Wine Spectator’ (Nov. 30, 2013) rates the recent vintages from the southern Rhône:
2012 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Cuvée Esparza’ – 13.5% Alc./Vol. $20/$120 for 6 This is a really, really good Côtes-du-Rhone from a terrific vintage. It is comprised of 69% Grenache, 16% Syrah and 15% Cinsault all hand-picked from the domaine’s vineyards in Vacqueyras and Sablet. It is an intense ruby colour with hints of violet. The nose is of pronounced aromas of ripe cherries, plums, fresh strawberries, garrigue, smoke, new leather, cassis and a hint of pepper. In the mouth it is big, almost chewy with amazing, silky tannins. This wine is much bigger and longer than one would ever expect from a humble Côtes-du-Rhône – Sébastien has done it again! Served slightly chilled (16°-17°) it will go splendidly with roasts, grilled meats and medium cheeses. It will keep quite happily for three to five years. Hélène’s guests contentedly consumed it in great quantities a couple of months ago (making a considerable dent in the 8,500 bottles produced) at le Château de Goult! Order your southern Rhône dazzler now.
2012 Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’ – 13.5% Alc./Vol. $28/$168 for 6 This stunning white is comprised of 82% Clairette and 18% Grenache Blanc, all hand-picked of course from vines averaging more than forty-five years old. It has seen some new oak, but not too much. It is a bright yellow-gold colour with a vibrant nose of grilled almonds, peaches, pears, honeysuckle, vanilla, exotic spices and toast. It is very smooth and extremely well balanced – lots of fruit offset by a gorgeous acidity. It is fresh, complex and finishes with a burst of citrus. It would be perfect, served at about 8°, with oysters, other shellfish and rich poultry dishes. This is very yummy stuff indeed, very reminiscent of a top-flight Châteauneuf-du-Pape white. It will cellar nicely for at least five years. Only 2,200 bottles produced. Order your rare and delicious white now.
2012 Gigondas Rouge – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $17/$204 for 12 Half-bottles Palon’s 2012 Gigondas is a real success, reminiscent of the exquisite, generous 2006 Gigondas. At a miserly yield of 22.71 hectolitres per hectare and with vines that average 45 years of age, it is comprised of 79% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 6% Mourvèdre. This is lovely, delicate charmer. It is a brilliant clear deep red. It has aromas of roasted coffee beans, toasted bread, cherries, prunes, blackberries, black currants and strawberries that have been steeped in alcohol along with hints of licorice and tobacco. In the mouth it is velvety, concentrated and beautifully balanced with a lingering aftertaste of roasted coffee beans. This grand wine will go wonderfully with magrets de canard, wild game, roasts and cheese. It tastes great right now and I know that it will last and improve for many years to come. Get your own classic Gigondas in demis now.
2011 Gigondas Rouge – 14.8% Alc./Vol. $31/$186 for 6 This elegant Gigondas is made from 79% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 6% Mourvèdre hand-picked from vines averaging well over fifty years of age. The Syrah and Mourvèdre are aged for twelve months in new oak casks. It is a dark crimson with pronounced aromas of raspberries, prunes, black cherry jam, pepper, roasted coffee beans, garrigue and spice. It is surprisingly big and velvety in the mouth with gentle tannins and impressive length. I’d like to see another six months to a year on it to get everything in proper balance. Served just below room temperature, this impressive wine will go perfectly with magrets de canard, wild game, roasts and medium cheeses. I’d decant it for at least an hour before drinking. 12,000 bottles were made. It will cellar well for eight to ten years. Get a great southern Rhône now.
Palon Sampler - 14% - 14.8% Alc./Vol. $29/$174 for 6 This is a great way to try two beautiful and distinctive 2011 southern Rhônes. You get three bottles each of the Vacqueyras Rouge and Gigondas Rouge from Domaine Palon. Order your six pack of pure elegance now.
Coming Next from Arthur’s Cellar – 2010 Bordeaux from Château Robin Robert Parker argues that 2010, like 2009 and 2005 may be the “three greatest Bordeaux vintages I have tasted in my career.” We will next be offering the well-priced, easy drinking Château Robin Bordeaux Côtes de Castillon from the outstanding 2010 vintage. This is a real treat for lovers of Merlot-based, high quality Bordeax.
It would be most sporting if you would pass this note on to anyone you think might be interested in some very, very good Southern Rhônes.
Many thanks and cheers,
Jim and Hélène www.arthursellers.com jaswalker@arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca www.ofrance.ca