Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
Jeb Dunnuck on the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Vintage
Jeb Dunnuck is the widely respected successor to Robert M. Parker, Jr. as the ‘Wine Advocate’ wine critic in the Southern Rhône. Here’s what he says about the 2012 vintage in Châteauneuf du Pape. “Surpassing 2011 and producing rich, fruit-loaded and moderately concentrated wines, 2012 was a sunny, dry vintage that should slot in beside, or slightly behind, 2009, in terms of quality. Coming closest, in my mind, to a lighter styled 2010, the wines possess pretty, dark fruit and mineral-styled aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and good, not great, concentration.
The majority of these will be approachable on release, yet have graceful aging curves as well, with the top releases having 15-20 years of evolution. Alcohol levels are down, and the wines have good to moderate acidity with fine, polished tannins and overall approachable profiles. While a number of vignerons reported that the 2012s were hard to taste early on (and I found a number seemingly closed and aggressively tannic), they are increasingly liking how they're showing with additional time in tank and barrel.
If the wines continue to gain mid-palate depth (and I think the best will), this could turn out to be a strong vintage. While Grenache fared well, it was a difficult vintage for Mourvèdre due to lack of water. While not a flat-out great vintage for reds, it is a great vintage for the whites.”
Domaine Roger Sabon
This estate has been making exceptionally high-quality wines for years, but recent vintages seem to have risen to a new level of quality. Moreover, Sabon’s wines have not yet been discovered by the masses, so prices are surprisingly reasonable. Readers should be also be aware that Roger Sabon produces a very delicious Côtes du Rhône and Lirac from vineyards holding those appellations.”
The domaine occupies about seventeen hectares of prime vineyards in some of the best sites of Châteauneuf - Les Cabrières, La Crau, Courthezon and Nalys, and all with "galets roulés" the sizeable white stones that soak up the sun and release the warmth to the vines at night. The vines are a minimum age of 50 years, with 90-year-old vines for the Cuvée Prestige. They are mainly Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre, but Muscardin, Terret, Vaccarèse and Counoise are also included in their Cuvée Prestige. From 1997, all of the grapes have been totally destemmed. The fermentation takes place in small cement vats and small stainless steel cuves, with pumping over and a cuvaison that lasts for 20 days at a temperature of between 30° and 34°. The wine is matured in foudres and used barriques, and receives neither fining nor filtration.
The Domaine Roger Sabon Wines on Offer
We were at the winery a couple of weeks ago where we found Didier Négron semi-patiently waiting for the 2014 harvest to begin. This pause in his usually hectic schedule provided us with ample time to thoroughly sample the wines we are now offering. They are truly lovely and fine examples of what a great vigneron can produce in the Southern Rhône.
We are delighted to offer you four red Châteauneuf du Pape from the 2012 vintage - ‘Les Olivets’, ‘Réserve’, ‘Prestige’ and ‘Le Secret des Sabon’ as well as the white 2013 ‘Renaissance’. Each comes in a six-bottle case. The reds also come in magnum format – three magnums to the case. And, Les Olivets is also available in half-bottles (we have had a number of requests for smaller bottles). Can’t make up your mind which to select? Why not try them all in the Sabon Super Sampler?
We also have the 2013 Rhône By Roger Sabon and 2012 Lirac By Roger Sabon for your drinking pleasure.
While the winery has been generous to us, quantities are strictly limited. So please order early to avoid disappointment. These wines are being offered at very favourable prices – consider that a 2011 Château de Beaucastel, rated 91-93 by (Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar, Jan./Feb. 2013) currently sells at the LCBO for $89.95 the bottle! We will be taking your orders for these fine wines to the LCBO on Friday, October 10th.
The following tasting notes and ratings James Molesworth of the ‘Wine Spectator Insider’ are from Vol. 10, No. 31, August 20, 2014 and from Jeb Dunnuck of the Wine Advocate, from a tasting on September 5, 2013.
2013 Rhône By Roger Sabon – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $20/$120 for 6 The 2013 Rhône By Roger Sabon is a truly lovely wine! It is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault. The grapes were destemmed and hand sorted. It is a dense ruby colour with pure aromas of raspberries, ripe cherries, garrigue, Provençal spices and minerals. It is well-balanced with silky tannins and lots of red and black fruit flavours – it is very elegant! Medium bodied, it will go perfectly with grilled meats, barbeques and charcuterie. It is ready to drink now and will continue to do so for another four to five years. And, great news – if you are in the Toronto area would like to try it before you order, it is a featured house red at Le Sélect Bistro (what a great excuse to visit this superb French bistro!). Order your delicious Rhône now.
2012 Lirac By Roger Sabon – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $26/$156 for 6 Robert Parker noted that Domaine Roger Sabon is one of only five “Excellent” Lirac producers. He goes on to say, “A sleepy village next to Tavel, Lirac appears to be emerging from the shadows of oblivion. More and more of the top estates are producing better and better wines.”
The 2012 Lirac By Roger Sabon is made from 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 5% Carignan. It is aged in stainless steel, this lovely, deep purple wine exhibits zesty aromas of sweet raspberries, blackberries and garrigue with a hint of pepper and tobacco. The red and black fruit persist in the mouth. It is elegantly complex, very long with a beautiful smooth tannic structure. It will go wonderfully with roasts and wild game. This needs a bit of time in the decanter before consuming. It will keep happily and evolve nicely over the next seven years or so. This is a wonderful wine and a fine example of the best of the southern Rhône. Order yours now.
2013 Châteauneuf du Pape ‘Renaissance’ Blanc – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $50/$294 for 6 2013 was a tricky vintage in the southern Rhône but this didn’t keep the Sabons from producing some really terrific wines. This fabulous white is one of them. Made from 50% Roussanne and completed with Clairette, Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc, this beauty offers up aromas of honeysuckle, pears, white peaches and fresh flowers that seem to leap from the glass. It is a full-bodied stunner, crisp, clean, subtle and elegant that sees no oak. This wine is meant to be consumed young – over the next year or two. What a treat!! Order a real treasure now.
“A silky, perfumed expression of raspberry, cherry and boysenberry fruit, lined with hints of black tea, singed sandalwood and blood orange. Fine-grained tannins and a hint of balsam line the finish. Drink now through 2022. 91/100 ($48) – James Molesworth, the ‘Wine Spectator’
This wine was consumed with great delight by Hélène’s Tour de Provence guests last week. It has outstanding potential and should offer up a great deal of pleasure over the next six or seven years. And, it is less than half the price of a bottle of Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape! Order your 750 ml bottles of this really good Châteauneuf now; or your Magnums; or your Half-Bottles.
“This is packed with boysenberry, fig and raspberry pâte de fruit notes, framed by black licorice details and carried by a racy graphite structure. The finish features a lingering echo of fruit accompanied by a serious tug of earth. Best from 2015 through 2026. 94/100 ($53) – James Molesworth, the ‘Wine Spectator’
I would give this marvellous Châteauneuf a couple of years before broaching and expect it to evolve wonderfully for the next ten years or so. Order your 750 ml bottles now; or your Magnums.
“Muscular grip holds the edges, while the core of plum, black currant and steeped blackberry fruit waits in reserve. The finish lets black tea, pastis and licorice root notes chime in. Shows solid range and depth. Best from 2015 through 2023. 93/100 ($79) – James Molesworth, the ‘Wine Spectator’
Medium to full-bodied, pure and lively with clean, classical aromas and flavours, it will drink beautifully over the next twelve to fifteen years. Order your 750 ml bottles now; or your Magnums.
“A lush, velvety style, with gorgeous flavors of raspberry ganache,
plum pâte de fruit and cherry preserves, lined with ample graphite-edged grip and driving authoritatively through a finish studded with licorice snap, black tea and tar notes. Has power, grace and serious length. Impressive. Best from 2016 through 2026.” 95/100 ($229) — James Molesworth, the ‘Wine Spectator’
“The top wine of the estate, the tiny production of 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon is almost all Grenache and was aged in 600-litre demi-muids. Gorgeous all around, with a sexy, voluptuous profile, it gives up notions of sweet blackberries, currants, underbrush, strawberry and mineral on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and brilliantly textured, with a relatively accessible profile, it should still be given a year, or three, in the cellar once released. It should age effortlessly for 15-20 years or more.” 94-96+/100. Jen Dunnuck
Order your 750 ml bottles of a Châteauneuf du Pape treasure now; or your Magnums.
Sabon Super Sampler $80/$480 for 6 What a veritable treasure trove of fine Châteauneuf du Pape this is … two bottles the 2012 ‘Les Olivets’ and one each of the 2012 ‘Réserve’, 2012 ‘Prestige’, 2013 ‘Renaissance’ Blanc and 2012 ‘Le Secret des Sabon’. This would be a great gift for connoisseurs, a terrific start to a wine collection or simply a wonderful way to try some very, very good Châteauneuf du Pape. Order your splendid six-pack now.
Sabon Southern Rhône Sampler $44/$264 for 6 You get one bottle each of the 2013 Rhône By Roger Sabon, 2012 Lirac By Roger Sabon, 2012 ‘Les Olivets’, 2012 ‘Réserve’, 2012 ‘Prestige’ and 2013 ‘Renaissance’ Blanc in this splendid Sabon Southern Rhône Six-pack. Order your sensational Southern Rhône sampler now.
Sabon 2012 Châteauneuf Magnum Sampler $122/$366 for 3 Talk about a party in a carton! You get one magnum each of the 2012 ‘Les Olivets’, ‘Réserve’ and ‘Prestige’ Châteauneuf du Pape from Domaine Roger Sabon. Order your large formats of delectable Châteauneuf du Pape now.
Coming Next from Arthur’s Cellar – Rhône Treasures from Domaine Palon
We visited the Palons a couple of weeks ago and sampled their latest vintages … sheer ambrosia. But yields were way down, to about forty percent of a ‘normal year’. However, the Palons have reserved for us our usual allotment, so there should be plenty for everyone who enjoys outstanding Gigondas, Vacqueyras (red and white) and Côtes du Rhône.
If you know any fanciers of superb Châteauneuf du Pape, we would really appreciate it if you would pass this note on to them.
Many thanks and cheers!
Jim, Hélène and Kate www.arthursellers.com jaswalker@arthursellers.com www.ofrance.ca hbuisson@ofrance.ca kwalker@arthursellers.com
