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Date October 22, 2010 
Title Last Call - Domaine Roger Sabon ... Rhônes Don’t Get Much Better Than These! 
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Bulletin

We will be taking your orders for the splendid wines from Domaine Roger Sabon to the LCBO on Friday, October 29th. Demand for these wines has been very high, particularly for the 2009 Rhône By Roger Sabon (including very large restaurant orders) and the 2009 Lirac ‘Chapelle de Maillac. 

The Domaine Roger Sabon Wines on Offer

Jean-Jacques Sabon
We are delighted to offer you the 2009 Rhône By Roger Sabon, the 2009 Lirac “Chapelle de Maillac, the 2008 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Olivets, the 2008 Châteauneuf du Pape Réserve and the 2008 Châteauneuf du Pape Prestige. Each comes in a six-bottle case. Each Châteauneuf du Pape also comes in magnum format – three magnums to the case.

Before getting to the wines, I should tell you a little about my impressions of the   2008 and 2009 vintages in the Southern Rhône. The 2009’s are terrific.  The growing conditions were almost ideal and although the crop was smaller than normal, the quality is outstanding.

But, 2008 was a very difficult year. It was relatively cool, damp and short on sunlight. As the result, the grapes were very late to mature and many didn’t. The only way to make a good wine was to be very, very selective when it came to the grapes going into the crusher. First rate wineries like Domaine Roger Sabon did what was necessary to produce very good 2008’s. They would normally create a wondrous and highly sought after cuvée called Le Secret des Sabon. But not enough high quality fruit could be gleaned from the vineyards for this iconic wine, so the Sabons decided not to produce it in 2008! The many high quality grapes that would normally go into the Le Secret found their way into the remaining Châteauneuf du Pape cuvées.

A major feature of the well-made 2008’s is that they are drinking very well right now and will continue to do so for the next two to three years – giving you something to enjoy while the more cellar-worth 2007’s and 2009’s mature.

The quoted commentary for the three Châteauneuf du Papes below is provided by James Molesworth in the October 15, 2010 edition of the Wine Spectator (prices in $US).


2009 Rhône By Roger Sabon – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $19/$114 case of 6
Oh boy, what a wine! We sampled this little beauty directly from the barrel as it will not be bottled for another month or so. It is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and will be aged in oak foudres for about five months. It is a bright ruby with pure aromas of raspberries, tobacco, Provençal spices and minerals. It is already surprisingly well-balanced with silky tannins and gobs of fruit flavours – it is almost chewy! While still an infant, I think this is going to be a very, very fine Côtes du Rhône, one that will cellar quite happily for up to a decade. Like all Sabon wines, there won’t be much of this to go around, so I am going to reserve at least a couple of cases for Arthur’s Cellar. Won’t you join me?

2009 Lirac “Chapelle de Maillac” - 14.0% Alc./Vol. $25/$150 case of 6
Man, Lirac doesn’t get much better than this! This was a cask sample too and it is amazing how pure and elegant this wine already tastes. The “Chapelle de Maillac” is made from 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Cinsault and is aged in oak foudres for about six months.

Robert Parker notes that Domaine Roger Sabon is one of only five “Excellent” Lirac producers. He goes on to say, “A sleepy village next to Tavel, Lirac appears to be emerging from the shadows of oblivion. More and more of the top estates are producing better and better wines.”

My notes … dark ruby with brown glints with an awesome nose of sweet strawberries, perfume, wet pebbles and a hint of pepper; amazing, wonderful in the mouth, very long with a beautiful smooth tannic structure. This is a pleasure to drink now and will go wonderfully with roasts (lamb!) and medium cheeses. Limited availability, great stuff. Please order now.


2008 Châteauneuf du Pape “Les Olivets” – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $39/$234 case of 6
Magnums $87/$261 case of 3
“Les Olivets” comes from an 8.5 ha. plot of vines averaging 40 to 60 years of age. It is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and is aged in oak foudres for six to eight months.

“Light-bodied, but fresh and pure for the vintage, with tangy red cherry, pomegranate and boysenberry fruit backed by licorice and sweet spice notes. Nicely rounded, with persistent length. Drink now through 2020. 2,000 cases made. $45 90/100 James Molesworth W.S.”

My notes … A brooding brick red with a nose of sweet red fruit, new leather, currants and garrigue that carries forward into the mouth. It is medium-bodied and very, very smooth; silky. Drinking beautifully now, Hélène’s O!France guests loved it. You could cellar this for a few years; but why bother when it tastes so yummy right now? Get yours now.


2008 Châteauneuf du Pape “Réserve” – 14.5% Alc./Vol. $47/$282 case of 6
Magnums $102/$303 case of 3
“Réserve” comes from a small 3 ha. piece of land with vines averaging sixty to seventy-five years of age. It is made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and is aged for twelve months in oak barrels ranging from two to four years of age.

“Inviting on the nose, with warm fig bread and hoisin sauce notes leading the way for lush cherry preserve, crushed plum and anise flavors. Silky and rounded on the finish, with long, lingering black licorice note. Drink now through 2023. 1,100 cases made. $48 92/100 James Molesworth W.S.”

My notes … This is a lot of Châteauneuf for the money, and ready to drink as well. I have no idea what hoisin sauce tastes like but I too detected black cherries, plums and licorice along with a hint of strawberries and a whiff of pepper. In the mouth it is velvety, well-rounded and medium-bodied with lovely tannins and a long, long aftertaste. This belongs with roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas and mashed potatoes. I can hardly wait till it gets here. Why not join me?


2008 Châteauneuf du Pape “Prestige” – 14.5% Alc./Vol. $68/$408 case of 6
Magnums $145/$435 case of 3
This is the star of Sabon’s 2008 Châteauneuf stable as much of the fruit that would have gone into the vaunted Le Secret des Sabons can be found here. It is amazing big and complex for the vintage. Grenache is the predominant grape in the blend and is joined by Syrah, Cinsault, Terret, Counoise, Vaccarese and Muscardin. It was matured in 40 hectolitre barrels and in oak casks for 16 to 18 months.

“Very stylish and perfumy, with sleek, fine-grained tannins carrying the crushed cherry, red licorice, bitter orange, clove and fruitcake flavors through the nicely defined finish. There’s also well-embedded acidity. Very fine-grained and Burgundian in style, making this deceptively long. Drink now through 2025. 730 cases made. $75 93/100 James Molesworth W.S.”

My notes … this is a bit of a brooding monster; round, rich, strong and very, very elegant. It has a complex, delightful aroma of strawberries, black cherries, tangy spices, wildflowers, old leather and just a touch of black pepper. In the mouth it is quite voluptuous and pleasing with a bit of warmth to go with the Sabon’s lovely tannins. It is surprising long and concentrated. This is really, really good Châteauneuf du Pape and it will go well with wild game, roasts and, particularly, lamb shanks. You won’t find many other top of the line Châteauneufs that are this good at this price. Order your hedonistic treasure now.

Please note that there is a $1 per bottle handing fee included in the above prices.

If you know any fanciers of superb Châteauneuf du Pape and other Southern Rhône wine, we would really appreciate it if you would pass this note on to them.

There is still a week left to reserve your place on Hélène’s Truffle Tour de Provence in early 2011. From Saturday, January 15th to Sunday January 23rd, eight adventurers will savour a truly gastronomic experience in a setting only Peter Mayle could adequately describe. Read all about it in our last Bulletin or get in touch with Hélène for more information and to make your reservations. We’d love to see you there.


Our old friend, Graham Nutter has been hard on the publicity trail once again. Please take a look at this article that appeared recently in the ‘Organic Wine Journal.

Cheers!

Jim and Hélène
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
www.arthursellers.com
hbuisson@ofrance.ca
www.ofrance.ca