Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
Annie, Sébastien and Papi Jean Elegant. That is the best single word I can conjure up to describe the delicious Côtes-du-Rhône, Vacqueyras (red and white) and Gigondas produced at Domaine Palon. The etsate is located just below the fairytale village of Gigondas between Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine in the heart of Provence. The Palons produce a very limited quantity of superb wine each year and agents from around the world literally send blank cheques for their entire production. Fortunately for us, the Palons prefer to allocate their treasures to a limited number of loyal, reliable customers. Marie and Jean-Pierre chat with Hélène Domaine Palon is a real family affair with a long grape growing tradition. Valérie and Léopold Palon were wine makers in Gigondas and their son Jean founded the Cave Coopérative de Gigondas and served as its administrator from 1956 to 1978. Now called Papi Jean and well into his nineties, he is still a regular at the winery and continues to enjoy a bottle of fine Palon wine each day (I can only hope for a similar fate!). His son, Jean-Pierre took over the reins of the co-op in 1978 (Jean-Pierre’s wife Annie was the financial director) and ran it until 2001, all the while selling his grapes to the same co-op. When Jean-Pierre and Annie’s son Sébastien graduated from oenology school, the family decided to leave the co-op and start making their own wines. 2003 was their first vintage. Sébastien, who has turned out to be a wine- making magician, looks after the cave while Jean-Pierre manages the fifteen hectares of prime vineyards with vines averaging over forty years of age. Sébastien’s partner Marie looks after the wineries’ administrative duties and manages the gift shop while the latest addition to the family, their son Noé makes regular guest appearances around the property. The Wines of Domaine Palon Hélène and I paid a joyous visit to Domaine Palon last September where, comme d’habitude, I did the tasting and she did the chatting (an exquisite division of labour). First was their delicious 2009 white Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’. It is splendid and reminds me of a very good white Châteauneuf-du-Pape but costs considerably less. The next great Palon winemaker? – Noé Next to make the ultimate sacrifice was the 2009 red Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Cuvée Esparza” named after our friend and wine business mentor Christian Esparza. If you are ever in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, do look him up at his Inter Caves wine emporium. Anyway, his namesake wine was wonderful, so much so that ten litres of it were happily consumed by Hélène’s Tour de Provence guests over the following couple of weeks! The next victim was a lovely 2008 red Vacqueyras that was simply splendid. Believe me, you have nothing to fear from the 2008 Palon wines where the hand-picked grape selection was ultra conservative. They display Sébastien’s masterful touch. The fruit is already in perfect balance with the silky, refined tannins. The red Vacqueyras is drinking wonderfully. And then it was the delicate, harmonious 2008 Gigondas’ turn. It reminded me of a very good, medium-bodied Châteauneuf-du-Pape and I found it to be drinking quite well. At less than thirty dollars a bottle, I am going to put some of this in our ‘drink now’ bin and give the 2007 and other vintages a little more time to mature. Finally we retried the magnificent 2007 Vacqueyras and Gigondas from magnums. Oh, my goodness! They still aren’t ready but in a couple of years (the Vacqueyras first) these are going to be classics. I managed to cajole Jean-Pierre (actually, beg and plead might be more appropriate words) into making a few more of these 2007 Magnums available for those of you who might have missed them the first time (three each in a case of six). All of the Palon wines come in six-bottle cases. The Palons have also pulled together an interesting sampler for us that includes two bottles each of the 2009 white Vacqueyras, 2008 red Vacqueyras and the 2008 Gigondas. We will be taking your orders for the wonderful wines of Domaine Palon to the LCBO on Friday, November 31st. 2009 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Cuvée Esparza’ – 13.5% Alc./Vol. $19/$114 for six This is a really, really good Côtes-du-Rhone from what looks like a stellar vintage (the Wine Spectator rates the overall vintage in the Southern Rhône 93 – 96; Robert Parker says, “in Gigondas and Vacqueyras one could argue that 2009 may end up to be nearly as profound as 2007). It is comprised of 69% Grenache, 16% Syrah and 15% Cinsault taken from the domaine’s vineyards in Vacqueyras and Sablet. It is a bright ruby with pronounced aromas of raspberries, ripe cherries, garrigue, smoke, new leather and cassis. In the mouth it is big, almost chewy, perhaps a bit unbalanced (no surprise for such a young wine) with amazing, silky tannins. This wine is much bigger and longer than one would ever expect from a humble Côtes-du-Rhône – Sébastien has done it again! It will go splendidly with roasts, grilled meats and medium cheeses. As noted, Hélène’s guests contentedly consumed it in great quantities a couple of months ago. It is great to know we’ll soon able to do so again. Order your Southern Rhône dazzler now. 2009 Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’ – 14% Alc./Vol. $26/$156 for six The composition of the ‘Blanc du Bary’ is a family secret, but I am fairly certain that the principal grape variety is my old favourite Clairette with a dollop of Grenache Blanc thrown in for good measure. It has seen some oak, but not too much. It is a bright straw colour with a vibrant nose of almonds, honeysuckle, vanilla, exotic spices and a trace of smoke. It is very smooth and extremely well balanced – lots of fruit offset by a gorgeous acidity. It is fresh, complex and finishes with a burst of citrus. It would be perfect with oysters, other shellfish and rich poultry dishes. This is very yummy stuff indeed, very reminiscent of a top-flight Châteauneuf-du-Pape white. Order yours now. 2008 Vacqueyras Rouge - 14% Alc./Vol. $26/$156 for six This gorgeous, medium-bodied wine is made from 75% Grenache, 16% Mourvèdre and 9% Syrah. It is a bright, clear ruby with complex aromas of raspberries, black cherries and currants, new leather and Provençal spices. In the mouth it is fresh and lively with surprising complexity and excellent balance. And, oh those delicate, silky Palon tannins. This wine has lots of character, depth and substance and will go beautifully with roasted fowl and charcouterie. This lovely wine is drinking beautifully right now and will continue to do so for another couple of years. Order some for your drinking pleasure. 2008 Gigondas Rouge - 14% Alc./Vol. $29/$174 for six This elegant Gigondas is made from 79% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 6% Mourvèdre from vines averaging well over forty years of age with a miserly yield of only thirty hectolitres per hectare. It is a dark crimson with pronounced aromas of raspberries, black cherries, pepper, roasted coffee beans, stone and spice. It is surprisingly big and velvety in the mouth with gentle tannins and impressive length. I’d like to see another six months to a year on it to get everything in proper balance. This impressive wine will go perfectly with magrets de canard, wild game, roasts and medium cheeses. I’d decant it for at least an hour before drinking. Get a great Southern Rhône for under $30 now. Palon Sampler - 14% Alc./Vol. $27/$162 for six This is a great way to try three beautiful and distinctive Southern Rhônes. You get two bottles each of the lively 2009 Vacqueyras ‘Blanc de Bary’, 2008 Vacqueyras Rouge and 2008 Gigondas Rouge from Domaine Palon. Order your six pack of pure elegance now. 2007 Vacqueyras/Gigondas Magnum Sampler $64.00/$384 for six 2007 was a truly monumental vintage in the Southern Rhône and Domaine Palon produced classic Vacqueyras and Gigondas. Here’s what Robert Parker said about the Vacqueyras – “The 2007 Vacqueyras (a blend of 75% Grenache, 16% Mourvèdre , and 9% Syrah) is excellent. Its deep ruby/purple colour is followed by aromas of black currants, black cherries, licorice, smoky roasted herbs, and meat. This full-bodied, plump, succulent effort is hedonistic Provençal wine that should provide enormous pleasure over the next 5-6 years. Rating: 90-93” The 2007 Gigondas is no slouch either. This is an enormous, brooding dark monster. A lovely clear deep brick red, it has aromas of fresh red fruit, cherries, pepper, and roasted coffee beans with hints of licorice and tobacco. In the mouth it is velvety, concentrated and beautifully balanced with a lingering aftertaste of fresh, dark mocha coffee. Both wines will benefit from another three to five years in the cellar. Quantities are limited. Get your six magnums of classic 2007 Vacqueyras and Gigondas from Domaine Palon now. Please note that the above prices include a one dollar handling fee. We would be most grateful if you would pass this note on to anyone you think might be interested in some very, very good Southern Rhônes. Robert Parker Comments on Domaine Roger Sabon There was a terrific response to our latest offering (taken to the LCBO a couple of days ago) of the marvellous wines from Domaine Roger Sabon. Here’s an abridged version of what Robert Parker says about them in his latest edition of the Wine Advocate. “The 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Olivets exhibits lavender, herb, ground pepper, garrigue, cherry, sassafras and plum notes in its spicy, medium-bodied personality. Already evolved and complex, this attractive 2008 can be drunk over the next 3-4 years. A sleeper selection, the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Reserve reveals a ruby/plum color as well as notes of roasted meat juices intermixed with black cherries, black currants, licorice and garrigue. Medium to full-bodied and atypically rich and powerful with an upfront precociousness, it is ideal for drinking over the next 7-8 years. Bravo! A real star, the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Prestige is another sleeper of the vintage. This powerful, rich blend from 90+ year old vines is one of the richest wines of the vintage. Medium to full-bodied with a dark plum/purple colour, it offers up aromas of grilled steak, beef blood, black currants, sweet cherries, charcoal, herbs and smoke. Almost an anomaly in this Chateauneuf du Pape vintage, it should drink well for a decade. Bravo! Lastly, an excellent value is the 2009 Cotes du Rhone [Rhône By Roger Sabon], a spicy, fruity hedonistic fruit bomb.” That’s it for now. Next will be the excellent Côtes-du-Rhônes and Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Vignobles Mousset-Barrot. Many thanks and cheers, Jim and Hélène www.arthursellers.com jaswalker@arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca
The Wines of Domaine Palon
Hélène and I paid a joyous visit to Domaine Palon last September where, comme d’habitude, I did the tasting and she did the chatting (an exquisite division of labour). First was their delicious 2009 white Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’. It is splendid and reminds me of a very good white Châteauneuf-du-Pape but costs considerably less.
The next victim was a lovely 2008 red Vacqueyras that was simply splendid. Believe me, you have nothing to fear from the 2008 Palon wines where the hand-picked grape selection was ultra conservative. They display Sébastien’s masterful touch. The fruit is already in perfect balance with the silky, refined tannins. The red Vacqueyras is drinking wonderfully.
And then it was the delicate, harmonious 2008 Gigondas’ turn. It reminded me of a very good, medium-bodied Châteauneuf-du-Pape and I found it to be drinking quite well. At less than thirty dollars a bottle, I am going to put some of this in our ‘drink now’ bin and give the 2007 and other vintages a little more time to mature.
Finally we retried the magnificent 2007 Vacqueyras and Gigondas from magnums. Oh, my goodness! They still aren’t ready but in a couple of years (the Vacqueyras first) these are going to be classics. I managed to cajole Jean-Pierre (actually, beg and plead might be more appropriate words) into making a few more of these 2007 Magnums available for those of you who might have missed them the first time (three each in a case of six).
All of the Palon wines come in six-bottle cases. The Palons have also pulled together an interesting sampler for us that includes two bottles each of the 2009 white Vacqueyras, 2008 red Vacqueyras and the 2008 Gigondas. We will be taking your orders for the wonderful wines of Domaine Palon to the LCBO on Friday, November 31st.
The 2007 Gigondas is no slouch either. This is an enormous, brooding dark monster. A lovely clear deep brick red, it has aromas of fresh red fruit, cherries, pepper, and roasted coffee beans with hints of licorice and tobacco. In the mouth it is velvety, concentrated and beautifully balanced with a lingering aftertaste of fresh, dark mocha coffee.
Both wines will benefit from another three to five years in the cellar. Quantities are limited. Get your six magnums of classic 2007 Vacqueyras and Gigondas from Domaine Palon now.
Please note that the above prices include a one dollar handling fee.
We would be most grateful if you would pass this note on to anyone you think might be interested in some very, very good Southern Rhônes.
Robert Parker Comments on Domaine Roger Sabon
There was a terrific response to our latest offering (taken to the LCBO a couple of days ago) of the marvellous wines from Domaine Roger Sabon. Here’s an abridged version of what Robert Parker says about them in his latest edition of the Wine Advocate.
“The 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Olivets exhibits lavender, herb, ground pepper, garrigue, cherry, sassafras and plum notes in its spicy, medium-bodied personality. Already evolved and complex, this attractive 2008 can be drunk over the next 3-4 years.
A sleeper selection, the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Reserve reveals a ruby/plum color as well as notes of roasted meat juices intermixed with black cherries, black currants, licorice and garrigue. Medium to full-bodied and atypically rich and powerful with an upfront precociousness, it is ideal for drinking over the next 7-8 years. Bravo!
A real star, the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Prestige is another sleeper of the vintage. This powerful, rich blend from 90+ year old vines is one of the richest wines of the vintage. Medium to full-bodied with a dark plum/purple colour, it offers up aromas of grilled steak, beef blood, black currants, sweet cherries, charcoal, herbs and smoke. Almost an anomaly in this Chateauneuf du Pape vintage, it should drink well for a decade. Bravo!
Lastly, an excellent value is the 2009 Cotes du Rhone [Rhône By Roger Sabon], a spicy, fruity hedonistic fruit bomb.”
That’s it for now. Next will be the excellent Côtes-du-Rhônes and Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Vignobles Mousset-Barrot.
Many thanks and cheers, Jim and Hélène www.arthursellers.com jaswalker@arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca
