Candace and Ference Máté

Ferenc was born in Hungarian Transylvania. After it was annexed by Romania, he and his family escaped to Hungary. Then after the Hungarian Revolution, at the age of eleven, he fled with his mother to Vancouver BC via Austria. He grew up on Canada’s west coast, graduated from the University of British Columbia, built a house boat and in due course had the good sense to bump into Candace.

Candace was born in Vancouver and graduated from the Etobicoke Collegiate Institute and the University of Guelph and earned a painting degree from Emily Carr College in Vancouver as well as a Master’s in Fine Arts in New York City. Along the way, among other things, she became an accomplished glider pilot and artist (the labels below are her handiwork).

A morning scene near the Mátés’ home in Tuscany

An old friary became the Máté family home

After gallivanting around the world like a pair of nomads on steroids, Candace and Ferenc decided wisely to make a home in Tuscany. Conceivably, the arrival of son Peter, AKA Buster had something to do with it. They settled into a comfortable country home but soon Ferenc became bored. He decided that he needed a vineyard! Dealings with a treacherous Roman for the vineyards next door failed so he searched high and low throughout Tuscany for the property of his dreams. Along with Candace as his willing accomplice, he finally found just what he was looking for near the hilltop village of Montalcino. The Mátés purchased 70 acres of splendidly diverse land in the best zone in Montalcino from the Mariani family’s Castello Banfi estate.

Between 300 and 400 feet above sea level, it included dense Mediterranean woods of herbs and wild fruit, vestiges of an Etruscan village, water falls and a dilapidated friary. With the assistance of a horde of local artisans, they completely restored every nook, cranny and rafter of the friary (Ferenc did all the wood work) and painstakingly cleared and planted those sections of the estate that promised to be the best for wine grapes.

A glorious eve in magical Tuscany

There are so many delicious stories that go with the development of this fabulous wine estate, like the exploding vats, the sheared viper and the runaway tractor. Ferenc delightfully relates them all in ‘A Vineyard in Tuscany’. As a special treat for our wine club members, the Mátés are going to send a copy to everyone who places an order for their wines.

The Astonishing Wines of Máté – Montalcino Tuscany

The Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grow happily in their own separate plots, crammed together 3,000 vines per acre. Yields are kept extremely low by three annual green prunings to concentrate the flavours.  Then the grapes are hand picked at fullest maturity and fermented in small temperature-controlled stainless steel vats or new wooden barrels. The grapes are punched down by hand to extract colour and tannins while the must is kept cool to maintain the rich aromas of fruits and spices. The wines are aged for up to thirty months in Allier oak barriques and tonneaux. Whether in the vineyards or the winery, Ferenc and Candace are fanatical about every aspect of the creation of their wines. In metaphysical terms, doing it the best way possible is an absolute presupposition for the Mátés. As a result, their wines exhibit great refinement, depth and an abundance of unforgettable flavours. They have been awarded 90 plus ratings by the Wine Spectator and other wine press from the start.

We have selected four outstanding Máté wines for you – the 2008 Albatro (a blend of equal parts Merlot and Sangiovese); the 2007 Manus Merlot; the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, and; the glorious 2006 Brunello di Montalcino. And, as another wine club special, Candace and Ferenc have created the Máté Sampler containing these four wines.

Recent Tuscan vintages have been very successful. Here is how the ‘Wine Spectator’ rates them (out of 100): 2006 – 96; 2007 – 95; 2008 – 88-91.

We will be taking your orders for these stunning wines to the LCBO on Friday, March 11^th. Please note that the following prices include a $1 handling fee.

2008 Albatro – 15.0% Alc./Vol. $32/$192 six-bottle case
This vibrant powerhouse is made from equal parts Merlot and Sangiovese that was aged nineteen months in one, two and three year old Allier oak. It is a strong, clear ruby red. At first there is a slight musk on the nose that is followed by pronounced aromas of red fruit, licorice, cedar and prunes with a hint of dark chocolate. In the mouth the prunes and red fruit persist with well integrated tannins, good acidity and pleasing length. There is wonderful depth of flavour and complexity here. Like all Máté wines, it should be decanted a couple of hours before serving a little below room temperature. It will go well with a wide range of foods, from roasted vegetables and grilled meats to medium cheeses and dark chocolate cake. Order your terrific tasty Tuscan now.

2007 Manus Merlot – 15.0% Alc./Vol $34/$204 six-bottle case
This brooding little flavour bomb is made from 100% Merlot and was aged in one, three and four year old Allier oak for twenty months. It is a deep, crystal clear garnet colour. It offers up generous aromas of prunes, licorice, dark chocolate, strawberry, leather and red currants. It is rich and corpulent in the mouth where licorice, cedar and prunes dominate. It is very well structured and balanced with silky tannins and a long finish. This is an elegant wine with considerable depth and complexity. Drink happily now or hold for at least five years. Decant, cool slightly and enjoy with just about anything you like pairing with an expressive red wine. Order your marvellous Máté Manus Merlot now.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon – 13.9% Alc./Vol $45/$270 six-bottle case
Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, this big expressive wine spent twenty two months in one, two and three year old Allier oak. I love this wine. It reminds me of a very good, top notch Napa Cab. A bright ruby colour, it offers up complex aromas of jammy red fruit, old saddle leather, cedar, macaroons (mmm, I love macaroons) and vanilla. Big, brawny and full of zesty fruit when first opened, it settles down and mellows out after a couple of hours in the decanter. But it remains complex, balanced, long and very, very pleasing.

Here is what ‘Wine Enthusiast’ magazine has to say about it in the December 15, 2010 edition: A lovely Cab from Montalcino, with bright berry aromas of blackberry and wild cherry backed by exotic spice, clove, sweet cinnamon and a touch of espresso bean. The wine is firm but smooth on the finish with loads of fruit intensity on the very end. 92/100.

Everyone raves about the Mátés’ Brunello (and for very good reason). But I think the Cabernet Sauvignon gives the Brunello a run for its money and will appeal particularly to the North American market. Order some and see what I mean.

2006 Brunello di Montalcino – 14.5% Alc./Vol $54/$324 six-bottle case
This classic Brunello di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese that rested 30 months in two, three and four year old Allier oak. It then remained eighteen months in the bottle before release. It is a sensuous, deep, sparkling clear garnet-ruby colour with a nose that is intriguingly spicy and floral with aromas of cherries, blackberries and licorice. In the mouth it exudes an enchanting complexity of flavours including dark chocolate, wild berries and plum that keep evolving in the glass. This stunner is wonderfully balanced with bright acidity and silky tannins. And, the medley of flavours seems to linger forever.

James Suckling on jamessuckling.com, January 15, 2011 pronounced: Love the nose to this, with licorice, mint, blackberries and aniseed. Full-bodied with wonderful dense fruit and super silky tannins. So fruity, yet so full of finesse. A beauty. Try it after 2014. 95/100.

But, $54 the bottle you say! Here is what similar wines were listed for in the February 2011 LCBO Vintages Classics Collection (2004 rated 92/100 - Wine Spectator):

   92247 – 2004 Antesino Montosoli Brunello di Montalcino – James Suckling 95/100 - $99
   724252 – 2004 Castelgioconda Ripe Al Conento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – James Suckling 95/100 - $99
   112607 – 2004 Fanti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – James Suckling 94/100 - $75
   700443 – 2004 Pogglio Antico Fanti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – James Suckling 96/100 - $119

Order your tantalizing Tuscan treat now.

The Máté Tuscan Sampler – 13.9%-15.0% Alc./Vol $44/$264 six-bottle case
A bottle each of the 2008 Albatro and 2007 Manus Merlot and two glorious bottles each of the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2006 Brunello di Montalcino. A sensational six-pack of tasty Tuscan treasures if ever there was one. Order your Tuscan treasure trove now.

Coming Next – A Rosé Duet!

To make sure we get these two great Rosés to you in time for the dog days of summer, we are going to offer them together – the very popular 2010 La Soif from Les Vignes du Lys and, for the first time the 2010 plaisir from the iconic Domaine Roger Sabon. Double your pleasure, double your fun with refreshing Rosé from Provence!

Jim and Hélène
www.arthursellers.com
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
hbuisson@ofrance.ca