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Date April 4, 2011 
Title Domaine de Poulvarel – Hyperbole in the Costières de Nîmes 
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Eureka! We’ve done it again, (he proclaimed modestly).

Pascal Glas, your intrepid taster and Christian Esparza
After two weeks of scouring the southern French countryside in search of vinous treasures (exhausting work I must note) you will be thrilled to learn that on our very last day we discovered the truly amazing wines of Domaine de Poulvarel in the AOC Costières de Nîmes. I have to admit that we had a little help from a familiar source – Christian Esparza, our long-time friend, purveyor of fine wines from his Inter Cave emporium in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and enthusiastic co-conspirator in the discovery of great wines for our wine club Members. These wines are so good, so reasonably priced and so hard to get that we couldn’t wait to tell you about them. We also wanted them to be here for your summertime enjoyment, especially the whites.

Domaine de Poulvarel is owned by Pascal and Elisabeth Glas. In 2004 Pascal, after working with various wine producers for twenty-five years convinced Elisabeth that it was time to take the big plunge and create their own winery on the family’s generations old grape growing properties. The winery is located just outside Sernhac, an old Saracen village found near the majestic Roman aqueduct, the Pont du Gard. The vines are old, yields are kept low, the grapes hand-picked and sorted and the wines impeccably made in the new state-of-the art winery. Pascal and Elisabeth make very, very good wines that are attracting the attention of the wine press and foreign buyers. There are 90 pluses from Robert Parker, three stars from the Guide Hachette and a Coup de Coeur from La Revue des Vins de France.

Costières de Nîmes
The Costières de Nîmes was established in 1989 and is, to quote Jancis Robinson in ‘The Oxford Companion to Wine’, “… the generally reliable and well-priced southernmost appellation of the Rhône. In French wine politics, it used to be considered part of the eastern Languedoc but the climate, soil, topography – and wines – are closer to those just over the river in the southern Côtes du Rhône vineyards. This is an important zone for the production of Vin de Pays. As in the nearby southern Rhône, Grenache is an important vine variety here, and must represent at least 25% of any red (to qualify as AOC Costières de Nîmes). Syrah and Mourvèdre are becoming increasingly popular in many of the best wines and must each total at least 20 per cent of the blend. This is an appellation in transition, not just geographically between the Languedoc and the Rhône, but temporarily between a bulk wine producer and a source of genuinely characterful, well-made wines”. Excellent examples found at the LCBO are the very good wines made by Mas de Bressades.

Vin de Pays d’Oc 
Jancis goes on to say, “The most single important vin de pays is Vin de Pays d’Oc, which is France’s prime source of varietal wine. About 85 per cent of  all vin de pays come from Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, or the southern Rhône. The pioneer was Mas de Daumas Gassac, an internationally famous wine which is sold merely as a departmental Vin de Pays de l’Hérault, but there are now scores, if not hundreds of equally ambitious producers of vin de pays, especially in the Languedoc-Roussillon, making some of the best value wines in the world.”

The Wines of Domaine de Poulvarel

Here’s where the hyperbole begins!

We are very excited to bring you four wines from Domaine de Poulvarel – two delicious whites and two heavenly reds – 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, 2010 Poulvarel Domaine Blanc, 2009 Merlot and 2009 Poulvarel Domaine Rouge. The first three are Vin de Pays d’Oc and the last AOC Costières de Nîmes. In addition, Elisabeth and Pascale have created two samplers for us – The Poulvarel White Wine Sampler containing three bottles of each of the whites and The Poulvarel Red Wine Sampler containing three of each of the reds. All come in six-bottle cases and each wine is under $20! These wines see no oak – just pure, luscious juice. To get these little treasures here as quickly as possible we are going to take your orders to the LCBO on Friday, April 15.

Don’t let the low prices, the unfamiliar appellation, the vin de pays status or the hyperbole deter you. These are terrific wines and I enthusiastically suggest that, at the very least, you order each of the Samplers so that you too can revel in the yumminess of the Domaine de Poulvarel wines.

2009 Sauvignon Blanc – 13.0% Alc./Vol.                                        $17/$102 six-bottle case
Made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, this stunning sipper, a Vin du Pays d’Oc has all of the pleasant Sauvignon characteristics with none of the nastiness. It is a clear, pale straw colour and has a lovely, fresh nose of fennel, tropical fruits, spice and minerals. It tastes great too – round, full, fruity with a nice citrus finish. This wine is dangerously easy to drink. Chilled, it will go delightfully with grilled fish and shellfish. It would also be just perfect to sip while preparing a meal or enjoying the patio on a lazy summer’s day. Order your irresistible dollop of sunshine now.

2010 Poulvarel Domaine Blanc – 13.5% Alc./Vol.                         $19/$114 six-bottle case
Also a Vin du Pay d’Oc (the temptation to say, “What’s up d’Oc?” is simply too much; forgive me), this is a more complex wine than the Sauvignon Blanc. It is made from 45% Grenache Blanc, 45% Roussanne and 10% Viognier and is a medium straw colour. This has a big nose that includes loads of lively fruit (pears, pineapple and apricot), honey and floral scents. It is simply wonderful in the mouth – generous, unctuous, and beautifully balanced with a lovely, long citrus aftertaste. This to me is a food wine that chilled will go brilliantly with creamed chicken or fish in sauce. I challenge you to find a more enjoyable white wine for under $20! Order this expressive beauty now.

The Poulvarel White Wine Sampler – 13.5% Alc./Vol.                 $18/$108 six-bottle case
Three bottles of the delightful 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and three bottles of the luscious 2010 Poulvarel Domaine Blanc in a handy six-pack. But be cautioned … you will wish you had more! Order your white wine lover’s sampler now.

2009 Merlot – 14.0% Alc./Vol.                                                         $17/$102 six-bottle case
Hyperbole alert; hyperbole alert!! I was told by usually reliable sources that the Domaine de Poulvarel Merlot is referred to locally as the Pétrus du Gard, with inference that somehow an unknown, inexpensive Vin de Pays d’Oc Merlot could rival the exalted Château Pétrus from Pomerol costing fifty or so times as much. Can it be true? Sadly, precious little Pétrus finds its way to my taste buds, but I will say that this is truly astonishing stuff! Made 100% from Merlot averaging thirty plus years of age and with a yield of less than 27 hl./ha., it is a dark ruby/purple. The pronounced nose is chock-full of raspberries, blackberries, smoke, exotic spices, cocoa and a trace of new leather. All of this carries through in the mouth to be joined by silky smooth, soft tannins, excellent depth and surprising length. I loved it and no wonder it is the top selling wine at Christian’s shop. It should be drinking perfectly when it arrives in two or three months and will go smashingly with grilled or roasted meats, pasta dishes and medium cheeses. It is hard to believe that you can get a wine this good at this price; but you can! Order your marvellous Merlot now.

2009 Poulvarel Domaine Rouge – 14.0% Alc./Vol.                        $19/$114 six-bottle case
Okay, more hyperbole! Local tipplers exclaim that the Poulvarel Domaine Rouge just possibly could be the best red wine to come out of the AOC Costières de Nîmes. Who knows? All I can say is that it is one darn good red for under $20. Made from equal parts Grenache and Syrah, it has all of the savoury aspects of a top notch Côtes du Rhône to which it is closely related. It is a brilliant dark plum colour with ruby glints. The full nose is of black cherries, raspberries, black currants, garrigue, saddle leather and just a hint of pine. In the mouth it is simply hedonistic - big, smooth and round with lovely tannins and a long, lingering aftertaste that one prays never goes away. It had just been bottled when we tasted it – I can only imagine how good it is going to be in a year or two. At present it needs to be decanted a couple of hours before serving with rib steaks, game or charcuterie. Order an incredible red wine value now.

The Poulvarel Red Wine Sampler – 14.0% Alc./Vol.                    $18/$108 six-bottle case
Three bottles of the splendid 2009 Merlot and three bottles of the brilliant 2009 Poulvarel Domaine Rouge all wrapped up in one neat carton. This is a no brainer for anyone who loves well-priced, superb red wine. Order this sublime red wine six-pack now.


Please note that the above prices include a one dollar per bottle handling (and tasting!) fee.

Coming Next

BeauféranWe are bringing back an old friend, Martine Sauvage and her crisp, well-priced wines from Château Beauferan. Sorry for the delay, but we just had to wedge in the lovely wines from Domaine de Poulvarel.


Know anyone who might enjoy four amazing wines from southern France? If you do, please pass this note on and invite them to join the tipplers of Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club.

Many thanks and cheers!

Jim and Hélène
www.arthursellers.com
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
hbuisson@ofrance.com