Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
There is always a sense of exhilaration as we drive up Avenue Imperiale, (a main perimeter road in Châteauneuf du Pape), past many storied wineries and approach the little parking lot outside the modest but inviting tasting room and offices of Domaine Roger Sabon. I am not sure if it is visiting the individuals of the extended Sabon family or the prospect of tasting their latest vintage that is more exciting; perhaps the former to Hélène and the latter to me. No matter, it is always a most delightful occasion. And, our most recent visit was even more exciting than usual because we were going to taste their superb 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape for the first time. As you can see from the tasting notes below, they did not disappoint.
Domaine Roger Sabon
“Roger Sabon is one of the more intellectual and forward-thinking vignerons in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Perhaps because the Sabon name has been associated with Châteauneuf du Pape since the early seventeenth century, he seems more concerned about the future than many vignerons. ... Sabon is a traditional winemaker. He has moved toward raising his red wines in small oak casks (all old since he does not like the effect of new oak). After having been pressured by his oenologist and European clients to do more fining and filtering, Sabon decided to make a qualitative rather than business decision, and for the last half decade or so has refused to filter any of his wines. In fact, he is an outspoken critic of the oenologists who consistently advocate an intense filtration, not recognizing that it can harmfully remove much of the aromatics, body and flavours of a wine. … This estate has been making exceptionally high-quality wines for years, but recent vintages seem to have risen to a new level of quality. Moreover, Sabon’s wines have not yet been discovered by the masses, so prices are surprisingly reasonable. Readers should be also be aware that Roger Sabon produces a very delicious Côtes du Rhône and Lirac from vineyards holding those appellations.”
Roger’s sons Jean-Jacques, Denis and Gilbert continued their father’s exacting standards and are now in the process of handing over the helm to the succeeding and equally capable generation, Didier Négron, Delphine and Julien Sabon.
The domaine occupies about seventeen hectares of prime vineyards in some of the best sites of Châteauneuf - Les Cabrières, La Crau, Courthezon and Nalys, and all with "galets roulés" the sizeable stones that soak up the sun and release the warmth to the vines at night. The vines are a minimum age of 50 years, with 90-year-old vines for the Cuvée Prestige. They are mainly Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre, but Muscardin, Terret, Vaccarèse and Counoise are also included in their Cuvée Prestige. From 1997, all of the grapes have been totally destemmed. The fermentation takes place in small cement vats and small stainless steel cuves, with pumping over and a cuvaison that lasts for 20 days at a temperature of between 30° and 34°. The wine is matured in foudres and used barriques, and receives neither fining nor filtration
The Domaine Roger Sabon Wines on Offer
We are delighted to offer you three red Châteauneuf du Pape - 2009 Les Olivets, the 2009 Réserve and the 2009 Prestige as well as the white 2010 Renaissance. Each comes in a six-bottle case. Each red Châteauneuf du Pape also comes in magnum format – three magnums to the case. Can’t make up your mind which to select; well why not try them all in the Sabon Châteauneuf du Pape Sampler?
Also available are a few more cases of the wonderful 2009 Rhône By Roger Sabon. As usual, we have had a rather small allotment of these wonderful wines bestowed upon us, so please order early to avoid disappointment. We will be taking your orders for these exceptional wines to the LCBO on Friday, September 2nd.
Before getting to the wines, I should give you my impressions of the 2009 vintage in the Southern Rhône. The 2009’s are terrific. The growing conditions were almost ideal and although the crops were smaller than normal, the quality is outstanding. More specifically, here’s what Mr. Parker says about the 2009’s from Domaine Roger Sabon, “Jean-Jacques Sabon and his son-in-law, Didier Negron (the oenologist here since 2001), hit pay dirt in 2009, a vintage that is not far off the pace of their spectacular 2007s.”
Robert Parker’s following tasting notes and ratings come from Issue 91 of his Wine Advocate – 31/10/2010.
2009 Châteauneuf du Pape “Les Olivets” – 14.5% Alc./Vol. $44/$264 for 6 Magnums $95/$285 for 3 “Les Olivets” comes from an 8.5 hectare plot of vines averaging 40 to 60 years of age. It is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and is aged in oak foudres for six to eight months.
“The dark plum/ruby-hued 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Olivets exhibits notes of incense, camphor, truffles, herbs, black cherry jam, strawberries and a hint of charcoal. The wine is rich and dense with supple tannins as well as a textured, lush mouthfeel. Consume it over the next decade. Rating (90 - 92)” Robert M. Parker, Jr.
My notes … A brooding brick red with a nose of sweet red fruit, new leather, currants and garrigue that carries forward into the mouth. It is full-bodied and very, very smooth with silky tannins. Get yours now.
2009 Châteauneuf du Pape “Réserve” – 14.5% Alc./Vol. $52/$312 for 6 Magnums $115/$345 for 3 The “Réserve” comes from a small three hectare piece of land with vines averaging sixty to seventy-five years of age. It is made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and is aged for twelve months in oak barrels ranging from two to four years of age.
“The 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réserve is more restrained aromatically and appears to be holding more in reserve than the Les Olivets. Its dense ruby/purple colour is followed by elegant, discrete aromas of grilled herbs, aged beef, smoked game, black currants, kirsch and garrigue. With an opulent attack, moderate tannins and multiple dimensions, it should rival the 2007. It should drink well for 15+ years. Rating (90 - 93+)” Robert M. Parker, Jr.
My notes … This is a lot of Châteauneuf for the money. It has a nose of black cherries, plums and licorice along with a hint of strawberries and a whiff of pepper. In the mouth it is velvety, well-rounded and full-bodied with lovely tannins and a long, long aftertaste. This belongs with roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas and mashed potatoes. I can hardly wait till it gets here. Why not join me?
2009 Châteauneuf du Pape “Prestige” – 15.0% Alc./Vol. $77/$462 for 6 Magnums $165/$495 for 3 Grenache is the predominant grape in the blend and is joined by Syrah, Cinsault, Terret, Counoise, Vaccarese and Muscardin – all from vines averaging ninety years of age. It was matured in 40 hectolitre barrels and in oak casks for 16 to 18 months.
“The sensational 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Prestige has an opaque ruby/purple color and offers up notes of incense, charcoal, black currants, plums, figs, soy as well as other Asian spices. Deep, thick, full-bodied and muscular with sensational concentration and length, silky tannins, low acidity and high glycerine (the alcohols must be 15+%), it will be drinkable at an early age and should keep for 15+ years. Rating (92-95)” Robert M. Parker, Jr.
My notes … this is a bit of a brooding monster; round, rich, strong and very, very elegant. It has a complex, delightful aroma of strawberries, black cherries, tangy spices, wildflowers, old leather and just a touch of black pepper. In the mouth it is quite voluptuous and pleasing with a bit of warmth to go with the Sabon’s lovely tannins. It is surprising long and concentrated. This is really, really good Châteauneuf du Pape and it will go well with wild game, roasts and, particularly, lamb shanks. You won’t find many other top of the line Châteauneufs that are this good at this price. Order your hedonistic treasure now.
2010 Châteauneuf du Pape “Renaissance” Blanc – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $50/$300 for 6 This fabulous white is made from 50% Roussanne and completed with Clairette, Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc. This beauty offers up aromas of honeysuckle, pears, peaches and fresh flowers that seem to leap from the glass. It is a full-bodied stunner, crisp, clean, subtle and elegant that sees no oak. This wine is meant to be drunk young – over the next year or two. What a treat!! Order a real treasure now.
Sabon Châteauneuf Sampler $53/$318 for 6 What a veritable treasure trove of fine Châteauneuf du Pape this is - two bottles each of the 2010 “Renaissance” Blanc and 2009 “Les Olivets” and one bottle each of the 2009 “Réserve” and 2009 “Prestige”. This would be a great gift for the connoisseurs, a terrific start to a wine collection or simply a wonderful way to try some very, very good Châteauneuf du Pape. Order your splendid six-pack now.
2009 Rhône By Roger Sabon – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $20/$120 for 6 This very popular Côtes du Rhône is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and was aged in oak foudres for about five months. It is a bright ruby with pure aromas of raspberries, tobacco, Provençal spices and minerals. It is surprisingly well-balanced with silky tannins and gobs of fruit flavours – it is almost chewy!
“An excellent value is the 2009 Côtes du Rhône, a spicy, fruity, hedonistic fruit bomb. There is not a lot of complexity to this cuvee, but a lush, heady style that will provide enjoyment over the next 1 – 2 years. Rating 90 – 92” Robert M. Parker, Jr.
So far we have ordered over 1,800 bottles of this delicious crowd pleaser for our Members and restaurants. I think I’ll get six more for myself. Won’t you join me?
Please note that there is a $1 per bottle handing fee included in the above prices.
If you know any fanciers of superb Châteauneuf du Pape, we would really appreciate it if you would pass this note on to them.
Soon to Emerge from Arthur’s Cellar
Our next featured wine will be the splendid Southern Rhône from Domaine de la Gramière followed by the glorious Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Côtes du Rhône from Domaine Palon.
Cheers!
Jim and Hélène
jaswalker@arthursellers.com www.arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca www.ofrance.ca
