Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
We are delighted to bring you two superb southern Rhônes produced by a very special winery from a particularly excellent vintage – the 2010 Rhône By Roger Sabon and 2010 Lirac By Roger Sabon from Domaine Roger Sabon.
2010 in the Southern Rhône
Robert M. Parker, Jr. enthuses, “This (2010) is a great vintage that comes close in quality to 2007 in the southern Rhône. Some producers think 2010 eclipses 2007 because of the wines’ vivid freshness and focus. Throughout the southern Rhône the hallmarks of the vintage are very dense purple, sometimes even black/blue colors as well as higher acid levels that have not been seen since 2004 and 2001. In fact, 2010’s paradox is that I can’t remember a vintage so concentrated, powerful and rich that also has such zesty acidity. The pHs are lower across the board than in 2009 and 2007, and the acids are higher. The downside is that following the relatively moderate to small crop in 2009, the 2010 crop was very small, largely because 30-40% of the Grenache crop (the dominant grape varietal of the southern Rhône) was lost due to coulure (poor fruit set in grapes where soon after flowering, the small berries fall off the vine) and millerandage (also abnormal fruit set which is shown by large and small grapes in the same bunch). This has undoubtedly contributed to the level of concentration in the final wines.
The 2010s will have significant aging potential, which is obvious in the level of tannins, but the tannins are sweet with exceptional elegance and finesse. The ratio of high extractive and phenolic skins to the juice has produced wines of extraordinary intensity, freshness, aromatic potential and obvious longevity. This is another great vintage that offers an embarrassment of riches for this region that has enjoyed a succession of extraordinary years. Since 1998, the top years have been 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003 (for a dozen or so estates), 2005, 2006 (which is very underrated and probably the finest value among all the appellations of the past 15 or so years), 2007 (the greatest vintage I have ever tasted in the southern Rhône), 2009 and 2010 (which is very close in quality to 2007). Add the possibility of a trifecta in 2011, and readers can see why more and more importers and consumers are beating a path to these outstanding wines that offer a terrific ratio in terms of value and pleasure, as well as potential for moderate evolution in wine collection.”
Domaine Roger Sabon
The Sabon family has a long and illustrious history in Châteauneuf du Pape and in fact is one of the oldest documented landholders in the area, having controlled vineyards there since 1540. The estate is renowned for their four red Châteauneuf du Pape (we will be offering the 2010 vintages in the early fall – all rated over 90 by Mr. Parker) and also receive much acclaim for their Lirac, Côtes du Rhône and other fine wines. It was Roger Sabon, a real stickler for making pure, unadulterated, classic wines who elevated the reputation of the winery during the seventies and eighties followed by his sons Jean-Jacques, Gilbert and Denis. The business is now in the very capable hands of Didier Négron, Jean-Jacques’ son-in-law who has been overseeing vinification since 2001, Julien Sabon who along with his father Denis looks after the vineyards and Delphine, Denis’ daughter who warmly greets guests in the tasting room and looks after much of the administration.
Today the domain includes 15 superbly situated hectares in AOC Châteauneuf du Pape (Les Cabrières, La Crau, Courthézon and Nalys) along with 17 hectares in Roquemaure where the Côtes du Rhône and Lirac are made.
The Domaine Roger Sabon Southern Rhônes on Offer
This time we are featuring the 2010 Rhône By Roger Sabon, the 2010 Lirac By Sabon (also known as Lirac – ‘Chapelle de Maillac’) along with the Sabon Southern Rhône Sampler: three bottles of each. All come in six-bottle cases. We will be taking your orders to the LCBO on Friday, June 1st.
2010 Rhône By Roger Sabon – 14.5% Alc. by Vol. $20/$120 case The 2010 Rhône By Roger Sabon is a featured house red at one of our favourite Toronto haunts, Le Sélect Bistro, so you can sample it before ordering. If you are not familiar with this authentic French bistro, this is a great excuse for giving it a try; but be sure to make reservations – it is very, very popular. While you are there, in addition to the 2010 Rhône By Roger Sabon try some of our other fine wines like the terrific 2007 Cuvée Charles from Domaine la Croix Chaptal (the restaurant refers to it as the ‘Larzac’) or the delightful 2009 Cuvée Sky from Les Cuvées du Firmament.
The 2010 Rhône By Roger Sabon is a truly lovely wine! It is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault. The grapes were destemmed and hand sorted. It is a dense ruby colour with pure aromas of raspberries, ripe cherries, Provençal spices and minerals. It is well-balanced with silky tannins and gobs of red and black fruit flavours – it is extremely elegant! It goes perfectly with bistro fare which might help to explain why it is so popular at Le Sélect Bistro. While drinking wonderfully now, I think this is developing into a very, very fine Côtes du Rhône, one that will cellar quite happily for up to a decade. It will go perfectly with grilled meats, barbeques and charcouterie. I’m going to add a few cases to Arthur’s Cellar. Won’t you join me?
2010 Lirac By Roger Sabon - 14.5% Alc. By Vol. $25/$150 case of six Robert Parker notes that Domaine Roger Sabon is one of only five “Excellent” Lirac producers. He goes on to say, “A sleepy village next to Tavel, Lirac appears to be emerging from the shadows of oblivion. More and more of the top estates are producing better and better wines.”
The 2010 Lirac By Roger Sabon is made from 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Cinsault. It is aged in oak foudres for about six months. This lovely, deep purple wine exhibits zesty aromas of sweet raspberries, blackberries and garrigue with a hint of pepper and tobacco. The red and black fruit persist in the mouth. It is elegantly complex, very long with a beautiful smooth tannic structure. It will go wonderfully with roasts and wild game. Like the 2010 Rhône By Roger Sabon, it will benefit from a couple of hours in a decanter if consumed while young. It will keep happily and evolve nicely over the next ten years. This is a wonderful wine and a fine example of the best of the southern Rhône. Order yours now.
2010 Sabon Southern Rhône Sampler - 14.5% Alc. By Vol. $25.50/$135 case of six What a glorious six-pack – three bottles each of the 2010 Rhône By Roger Sabon and 2010 Lirac By Roger Sabon! Well-priced southern Rhônes from a top producer in a great year; it simply doesn’t get much better than this. This is a wonderful addition to any cellar, or a nifty gift for anyone who appreciates an excellent value in wine. Order your scintillating sampler now.
Please note that there is a $1 per bottle handing fee included in the above prices.
Jean-Jacques Sabon
Not only the wine world but everyone lost a truly special gentleman when Jean-Jacques Sabon passed away earlier this year. Hélène and I were privileged to get to know this most remarkable and unique man over the past seven years. We are grateful to him for trusting us with his cherished wines and for convincing us that we could make a go of it in this wondrous world of wine. A marvellous family man, Jean-Jacques along with his brothers Gilbert and Denis made certain that Domaine Roger Sabon maintained the standards set by their father, Roger. But, Jean-Jacques’ touch went far further than the vineyards of Châteauneuf du Pape. He had a special healing gift that allowed him to help those with severe afflictions. We have met people from all over southern France who credit him for improving their lives. He is sorely missed.
If you know any fanciers of superb southern Rhônes, we would really appreciate it if you would pass this note on to them.
Cheers!
Jim and Hélène jaswalker@arthursellers.com www.arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca www.ofrance.ca