Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
“The wine of Uzès is the best in the realm.” (Racine – 1661)
Every once in a while we discover a ‘new’ winery that we can hardly wait to tell you about. Such is the case with Domaine Camp Galhan, producers of divine red and white Vin de Pays Duché d’Uzès and Vin de Pays d’Oc from the heart of the Languedoc. As Robert Parker remarked in issue 173 of his ‘Wine Advocate’ (he always seems to discover notable wines before I do), “Lionel and Alain Pourquier defy their entitlement to only a Vin de Pays appellation with wines of extraordinary value.”
We met Lionel Pourquier, (owner and operator of the winery along with his brother Alain), when he was sharing a booth with Patrick Chabrier of Domaine Chabrier Fils at last winter’s ViniSud wine fair in Montpellier. As is the norm with Patrick, things were completely chaotic at his side of the booth, so we decided to try some of Lionel’s wines to pass time till some sense of calm returned. We were completely enchanted by these fresh, flavourful, obviously well-made wines. To be certain that we weren’t being influenced by the prevailing mayhem, we subsequently asked Lionel to provide us with some samples to try under more tranquil circumstances. This we did a couple of months ago in Sarlat in the Dordogne while scouting out a new locale for Hélène’s tours of France. Consumed with some simple fare (yah, right – figs stuffed with foie gras, roast duck, local pâté, fresh baguette, etc.) we found them to be even more enjoyable than before! So, we are now delighted to bring them to you – two fresh and zesty whites, two full and satisfying reds and a special mixed case of all four. Bring on the foie gras stuffed figs! We hope you enjoy these marvellous wines as much as we do.
Domaine Camp Galhan
Located near the village of Ribaute les Tavernes, not too far from bustling Uzès, the Camp Galhan vineyard is situated high above the banks of the Gardon River in the foothills of the bucolic Cévennes
Mountains. The winery gets its name from the Roman camp, “Galhan”, that was located next to the present winery. The 40 hectare property and vineyards have been in the Pourquier family since the early twentieth century and they have long be renowned for their superb grapes that were sent each year to the local co-op. But Lionel tired of giving his great grapes to the co-op only to have them make mediocre wine. So, in 2001 he built a modern winery into the side of a hill, designed so that gravity moves the grapes and juice during vinification (thus avoiding the use of much harsher mechanical pumps) and started to produce his own wines.
But, as they say, at least eighty percent of great wine- making occurs in the vineyard. Lionel has worked hard to isolate the best vineyard sites in the hill sides above the valley and to update his winemaking techniques. He farms his vineyards using organic methods in the ‘lutte raisonnée’ manner, and green harvests in the spring to decrease yields. Lionel then hand selects only the best fruit to go into his wines, which most recognize as being among the very best in the region (along with Domaine Chabrier Fils and Les Vignes du Lys in my opinion!).
By the way, Lionel also grows durum wheat in the valley which he sells to high-end pasta producers, mostly in Italy. He is currently president of the durum wheat growers association for the region.
The Glorious Wines of Domaine Camp Galhan
We are truly delighted to bring you the vinous treasures from Domaine Camp Galhan. There are two whites – the 2011 Amanlie Blanc and 2009 Ripa Alta Blanc; two reds – the 2011 Pérassières Rouge and 2010 Les Grès Rouge, and; The Camp Galhan Sampler that gives you a taste of all four. Each is drinking wonderfully now, but the reds will reward you with a year or two of patience. They come in convenient six-bottle cases. We will be taking your orders to the LCBO on Friday, November 30th.
The ‘Camp Galhan’ Sampler - 14.0% Alc./Vol. $22/$132 per case of six This is a great way to try all of the Domaine Camp Galhan vinous treasures. You get a bottle of the 2011 Amanlie Blanc, two bottles of the 2009 Ripa Alta Blanc, a bottle of the 2011 Pérassières Rouge and two bottles of the 2010 Les Grès Rouge. I do hope that every one of our members will order this Sampler to taste for themselves the great values that come from southern France. Order your six-pack of pure drinking pleasure now.
Updated Robert Parker Ratings for 2010 Domain Roger Sabon Châteauneuf
In his latest edition of the ‘Wine Advocate’, Robert Parker refined his ratings for the four Châteauneuf du Pape from Domaine Roger Sabon: Les Olivets – 91; Cuvée Réserve – 93; Cuvée Prestige – 96, and; Les Secret des Sabon – 99.
His comments about Jean-Jacques Sabon are also worth noting, “I witnessed and was profoundly touched by the following story and decided to share it with readers. One of the Sabon brothers, Jean-Jacques died last year after a heroic fight with cancer. I knew Jean-Jacques well as he was one of the first vignerons to embrace me, and help educate me about the different terroirs, styles of wine, and the history of Châteauneuf du Pape. I remember taking a dear friend to visit the Domaine Roger Sabon in 2002. My friend wanted to visit Roger Sabon because he had just lost his beautiful wife after a long battle with cancer. As we were tasting in the cellars, my friend wanted to taste Le Secret des Sabon, a wine his wife thought might be some sort of miracle cure for her terminal disease. Not surprisingly, when Jean-Jacques took his pipette and poured a sample for my friend, he broke down. As Jean-Jacques and I walked to a distant corner of the cave to give him some privacy, Jean-Jacques said that never in his life had he seen a person moved by a wine he and his family had made. He said it gave him goose pimples, and he himself nearly lost it emotionally as did I. It was a rare and revealing look at an extraordinary man. Jean-Jacques Sabon will be forever missed as he did so much for the appellation.”
If you know anyone who would be interested in some glorious wines from the south of France, we would greatly appreciate it if you would pass this bulletin on to them.
Cheers,
Jim and Hélèn jaswalker@arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca
