Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
Hélène and I just love to drive along Route D99 between St-Rémy and Cavaillon in southern France. What makes this glorious plane tree encased road extra special is that one of our favourite wineries, Château Romanin is hidden just off it in the craggy little mountains called Les Alpilles.
Once you spy the winery’s modest sign, you exit through a small gap in the trees, take a little bridge over a ditch and follow a rustic dirt path as it meanders through some pastures and then sharply ascends past an active glider airfield towards the peaks ahead. Against the horizon you can make out the ruins of an old château that once served as a base for a local court (Court of Love) and visiting troubadours. The path becomes positively serpentine as it winds its way over gravelled soil and rocky outcroppings that suddenly become covered in luscious grape-festooned vines stretching as far as the eye can see. As you approach the end of the road and the side of the mountain, no winery is to be seen! Have you made a wrong turn? And then you see it, chiselled right into the face of the mountain!
Inside, Château Romanin is equally astonishing – virtually a cathedral inside a mountain! The main reception area is absolutely, well ... cavernous - you can see what the barrel room looks like in the photo. But everything is completely modern and spotlessly clean. Since the time the winery was established in 1988 they have followed biodynamic principles (certified biodynamic with Demeter in 1998); fully organic farming enhanced by the rhythms of nature and the position of the heavenly bodies (in response to cosmo-telluric influences!). And, as you will happily discover their wines are delicious and, yes, positively thirst-quenching.
Château Romanin
Wine has been produced from the land occupied by Château Romanin since at least 350 BC when the Greek, Theopolis was shipping wine-laden amphorae back home to his county men. Later the Romans took over, hence the name. The area abounds in myths and legends which are wonderfully described on the winery’s website.
In May of 2006 a major transition occurred – Anne-Marie and Jean-Louis Charmolüe sold their iconic Château Montrose (2nd Grand Cru Classé Saint-Estèphe) vineyard in the Médoc and in turn purchased Château Romanin. Talk about a vote of confidence! While committed to the biodynamic principles well-practiced at their new acquisition, the Charmolües are determined to raise Château Romanin to even higher levels (my recent tastings suggest they are succeeding indeed). They are ably assisted in this quest by Manager Pascal Freychet, Oenologists Denis Dubourdieu and Denis Péraldi and a team of up to sixty-five or so at harvest time.
The Wines of Château Romanin
Each wine wonderfully represents the unique terroir of Baux de Provence and comes in a six-bottle case. And, to make it most convenient for you to try their wonderful wines, Pascal has created the Château Romanin Sampler – a bottle each of the featured wines and an extra of the 2007 Château Romanin Rouge. We will be taking your orders for these fine wines to the LCBO on Friday, December 21.
2011 Château Romanin Blanc - 13.0% Alc./Vol. $25/$150 case of six This lovely white is made from 100% Rolle (Vermentino) with a frugal yield of between 30 and 40 hl/ha. It rested on its lees for six months and saw no oak. It is a brilliant clear straw colour with glints of green shining through. There is a pronounced note of almonds and citrus fruits on the nose that follow through in the mouth where the wine is round, fresh and very well-balanced, almost unctuous with lovely minerality. This elegant and complex beauty, served at between 10 – 12 °C will go wonderfully with seafood, roast chicken and mild cheese. Order your unique and splendid AOC Les Baux de Provence white now. You will be delighted you did.
2009 La Chapelle de Romanin Rouge - 13.5% Alc./Vol. $25/$150 case of six The 2009 La Chapelle de Romanin is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (20 hl/ha), Mourvèdre (30 hl/ha), Grenache (30 hl/ha), and Syrah (35 hl/ha). This wine is not exposed to oak. It is a brilliant ruby colour. The first aromas that hit you are black berries and black currants followed by exotic spices, liquorice and incense. Black fruit and liquorice follow in the mouth where the sensation is fresh, beautifully balanced and elegant with lovely, soft tannins. This wine is delightful to drink now (with grilled meats, charcuterie and medium cheeses) and will keep happily for six to eight years. Order your most pleasing AOC Les Baux de Provence rouge now.
2007 Château Romanin Rouge - 14.0% Alc./Vol. $34/$204 case of six This fine AOC Les Baux-de-Provence is made from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon that spent eighteen months in tanks and oak vats before bottling. It is an intense ruby colour. The nose is first of strawberries and raspberries mixed with incense and then wisps of spices, smoke and blackberries join the medley. In the mouth it is full, unctuous, wonderfully balanced and refined with lovely tannins and the long finish ends with a hint of liquorice. It is also drinking very nicely now and will continue to evolve nicely for another eight years or so. This full, intense wine would be a perfect companion for game, roasts and stews. It needs a few hours in the decanter at present and will keep improving for another decade. Rated 92/100 by Gilbert et Gaillard. Order this big, wonderful taste of Provence now.
2011 Le Mas de Romanin Blanc - 12.5% Alc./Vol. $19/$108 case of six This Vin de Pays des Alpilles is refreshing, crisp, fruity white is made from 100% Rolle from vines averaging seventeen years of age. It is a beautiful clear straw colour and offers up vibrant aromas of spring flowers, peaches, almonds and wet pebbles. In the mouth the floral and peach sensations continue and finish with a delightful citrus note. It is very pure, well-balanced and surprisingly complex for a wine of this price. Not only a great sipper, this little beauty goes perfectly with shellfish, poultry dishes and vegetarian fare. Order your very refreshing taste of Les Alpilles now.
2011 Le Mas de Romanin Rouge - 13.5% Alc./Vol. $19/$108 case of six This surprisingly pleasant and complex red is made from Grenache, Syrah and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon from what the winery calls ‘young vines’ – 18 and 19 years of age. This Vin de Pays des Alpilles is a bright ruby with a fruity, robust nose of red berries, Provençal herbs, liquorice and a trace of new leather. It is a medium-bodied wine, round and fresh with soft, elegant tannins and decent length. It seems to have been created for the grill and barbeque. It is drinking very nicely right now and will stay that way for at least another three or four years. Terrific stuff for the price. Order your barbeque mate now.
Pascal’s Château Romanin Sampler - 13.0% Alc./Vol. $26/$156 case of six Pascal’s Château Romanin Sampler contains one bottle of each of our featured wines – the delicious 2011 Château Romanin Blanc; the refreshing and satisfying 2009 La Chapelle de Romanin, the very special 2007 Château Romanin Rouge, the lovely 2011 Le Mas de Romanin Blanc and the barbeque friendly 2011 Le Mas de Romanin Rouge plus a second bottle of the 2007 Château Romanin Rouge. Discover the special charm of the Château Romanin terroir and biodynamic techniques for yourself.
Please note that the above prices include a one dollar per bottle handling fee.
We would be most grateful if you would pass this bulletin on to anyone you think might be interested in some splendid wines from Provence.
Many thanks and cheers,
Jim & Hélène jaswalker@arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca www.arthursellers.com www.ofrance.ca
