We’re back – in business and from a most delightful two week sojourn in Bordeaux and Bergerac wine country where we slavishly sought out new elixers for our wine club members. What better way to commence our vinous Phoenix’s ascent than with the truly wonderful AOC Côteaux du Languedoc wines from Domaine La Croix Chaptal? Artisan vintner Charles Pacaud has some real treats in store for you. Wines like the Cuvée Charles, Les Sigillées Rosé and Clairette du Languedoc Blanc have already earned a sizeable following among our members while the 2009 “La Grive & l’Ortolan” Rouge and 2009 “Witiza” Rouge, like our province, are yours to discover. And, believe it or not, we have secured the remaining few cases of the delicious ‘Lost Wine’, the 2006 Les Terrasses du Larzac Rouge! Tough to decide which ones to choose? No worries. Charles has created a special red wine sampler case just for us!

Côteaux du Languedoc – Les Terrasses du Larzac

The Côteaux du Languedoc, part of the huge Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France (producing more wine than Australia or Bordeaux), is itself a large and varied wine area that fans out from Montpellier near the Mediterranean up to the Massif Central. As Paul Strang notes in his excellent book, ‘Languedoc-Roussillon, The Wines and Winemakers’, “Certainly the most diffuse and varied appellation of Languedoc-Roussillon, Côteau du Languedoc is an amalgam of vastly differing landscapes and terroirs; the wines made there are equally diverse in style. But in each region there is bound to be a handful of growers succeeding in making some of the best wine of the south.”

While wine grapes have been cultivated in the area since Roman times, it was the Benedictine Monks who really developed the reputation of the Languedoc from the tenth to the nineteenth centuries. For trivia fans, here is how the area got its name. Languedoc describes the division between southern France where yes was “Oc” and the north where yes was/is “Oui”. It simply means the language where they say Oc!

Enjoy the Languedoc, from Andrew Jefford: Decanter January 2009 (pg 21)
"...Geologically, the Languedoc hills are a synopsis of everything which makes France so propitious for winegrowing... Surely in any other country, those Languedoc hills would have been a star region; their misfortune was to find themselves sharing a nation with Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire and the Rhône. And too far from Paris. But where is the best spot in the Languedoc ? My theory is that Terrasses du Larzac is the greatest spot in the Languedoc... Stone and slopes alone don't make for great wine - as much of Provence proves - but when skilled winegrowers grapple intelligently and sensitively with nature here, the results seem to me to have the same aromatic, textural potential as the best of the Rhône..."

Domaine La Croix Chaptal

Domaine La Croix Chaptal can be found near a hamlet called Cambous which is located on the western part of the rural district of St André de Sangonis, 30 kms north-west of Montpellier. The estate dates from at least 1826 where it was listed in the area’s first land registry as part of the Seigneurie of Cambous owned by Edouard Auguy de Vitry, a lawyer in Gignac. He built the existing cellar and festooned it with the Croix du Languedoc, enhanced by a heart which gives rise to today’s name of the estate. Charles and his wife Huguette purchased the property from Auguy de Vitry’s descendants in 1999 and have been restructuring, restoring and expanding it ever since.

Charles, your tireless taster and Huguette

Charles was born in Cognac and studied viticulture and oenology in Montpellier. Before creating Domaine La Croix Chaptal, Charles worked for several wine companies in the UK, USA and France known for their innovative spirit and modern wine-making techniques. He has combined this experience with a healthy appreciation of traditional practices to produce truly remarkable and enjoyable wines.

It would seem that Huguette, now a special educator in Montpellier, also has wine flowing in her veins. Her maiden name is Chaptal and her relative, Jean-Antoine Chaptal developed the process of chaptalization whereby sugar is added to unfermented grape must in order to increase the alcohol content after fermentation.

Charles’ Wines on Offer

Charles makes very good, very serious wines from the best part of the AOC Côteaux du Languedoc - Les Terrasses du Larzac. His wines regularly appear in the ‘Wine Spectator’, receiving high eighties and nineties ratings. We have the 2012 “Les Sigillées” Rosé, 2008 Clairette de Languedoc Blanc - Vieilles Vignes, 2006 Les Terrasses du Larzac Rouge (AKA ‘The Lost Wine’), 2009 “La Grive & l’Ortolan” Rouge, 2008 “Cuvée Charles” Rouge and the 2009 “Witiza” Rouge along with a six-bottle mixed case of the red wines. I heartily endorse each of these wines. Have no doubt that I will be ordering some for Arthur’s Cellar. Charles’ wines come in convenient six-bottle cases. These are all terrific and each comes from a very good vintage. We will be taking your orders to the LCBO on Friday, May 17.

We will be using our latest ordering process to comply with the current LCBO dictates while maintaining a reasonable degree of client service. I should note that the LCBO rules for wine clubs have substantively morphed again since I met with them three weeks ago. They will undoubtedly continue to do so until their appeal of the Privacy Commissioner’s ruling has been concluded.

You will continue to order your wine in the usual way. The change is that I will then send you a completed LCBO Private Order form that I will ask you to sign and return to me in full by the final order date (May 17). Computer wizzes will have no trouble with this but it might be a challenge for us Luddites. Should you count yourself in the latter category, please allow lots of time to get the form to us. And, let me know if you need any assistance … I’ll get someone in the former group to help us.    

2012 “Les Sigillées” Rosé - 12.5% Alc./Vol.                               $19 per bottle/$114 per case of six 
A full-bodied, smashing rosé made by the saignée method, the 2012 “Les Sigillées” is truly the red wine drinker’s Rosé. It is a beautiful vibrant pink and is made from 60% Grenache Gris, 35% Carignan and 5% Syrah. Twenty percent is aged in new oak. Yields are less than 40 hl./ha. It has full, rich aromas of strawberries, raspberries and other red fruit along with a hint of citrus which carries through to the nice crisp finish. This is a very serious rosé that will keep for several years and will go well with pork, ham and Oriental dishes. Latch on to some for yourself.

2008 Clairette de Languedoc Blanc - Vieilles Vignes - 13.0% Alc./Vol.   $21 per bottle/$126per case of six
Made from old Clairette du Languedoc Blanc, the grapes are all hand picked and destemmed, pressed and left in contact with the skins for a very short time. It receives traditional vinification on its lees (28% in new oak and 72% in stainless steel tanks). Total production is only 8,000 bottles. A full-bodied, fresh and very clean white wine with tantalizing aromas of butter, toasted bread, hazelnuts, almonds and citrus fruit. Very smooth, it finishes with a nice soft citrus aftertaste. It is a great wine to drink alone as an aperitif and will go well with shellfish, fish in white sauce or soft cheeses. It is drinking well now and will evolve to a hazelnut taste in a year or two (it then will go well with white meat accompanied by mushrooms in a white sauce), and later to walnut (then it will go well with a whole range of cheeses). I love this white! Get it while it lasts!

2006 Les Terrasses du Larzac Rouge - 13.0% Alc./Vol.            $21 per bottle/$126 per case of six 
Like all of Charles' wines, Les Terrasses du Larzac grapes are hand-picked and sorted. It is made from 55% Grenache, 40% Carignan and the rest Syrah with yields between 35 and 40 Hectolitres per hectare. ‘The Lost Wine’ (because Charles forgot he had it for several years) underwent a short aging period on oak. This is a fruity, dark red wine with aromas of cherry and coffee with a touch of spice. Nicely aged and ready to drink now (but it will keep for a couple more years), this little treasure will go well with both white and red meats. Order some now.

2009 “La Grive & l’Ortolan” Rouge - 13.0% Alc./Vol.              $22 per bottle/$132 per case of six
This is a very special new wine from Domaine La Croix Chaptal – not just because it tastes great, but because it has been created to help fund a refuse for thrushes and ortolans. Here’s how Charles describes his creative partnership in favour of biodiversity - Domaine la Croix Chaptal enjoys a favourable environment. Since the year 2000, right after my arrival, I have committed myself to protecting its rich biodiversity and the vineyard has been looked after according to integrated farming methods so as to stimulate a natural balance.

Favourable natural conditions encourage thrushes and ortolans to alight on the plots of our estate in the course of their migrations. Therefore, in order to offer them the best conditions, I have set up a bird sanctuary in conjunction with the Languedoc- Roussillon Society for the Protection of Birds (LPO). This genuine “island for birds” has been spreading at the heart of the vineyard from year to year and now includes the 11 hectares of woodland belonging to this estate.

This project has finally come true with this special cuvée “La Grive et l’Ortolan”, a Terrasses du Larzac, our flagship wine. For each bottle sold, 0.25 € will be donated to the LPO Languedoc Roussillon.

But, this wine isn’t strictly for the birds; far from it. Made from low-yield Grenache, Carignan and Syrah, it is a lovely royal purple colour. Aged in oak for a short period, it offers up vibrant aromas of red berries (cherries), black fruit (blackberry and blackcurrant) and a hint of roasted coffee. It is well-rounded in the mouth with supple and silky tannins as well as with a superb freshness (mint – eucalyptus). One can also taste an array of spices, especially bay leaf and the local woodland “garrigue”. It will go well with grilled meat, poultry and cheese. Drink it within five years; however, it can be kept for seven. Order your case of Terrasses du Larzac pleasure now – the thrushes and ortolans will be glad you did!

2008 “Cuvée Charles” Rouge - 13.5% Alc./Vol.                         $24 per bottle/$144 per case of six
This is a truly lovely wine from a much maligned vintage. Made from 30% each of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, it was unfiltered and rested in oak barrels for a full year. The yield is only 32 hectolitres per hectare. It is deep ruby with aromas of raspberries, black berries, wild brush, vanilla, toasted coffee and fine spice. It has elegant, complex tannins and a long, lingering aftertaste. It is drinking beautifully now and will age brilliantly for many years. Serve with roasts, game and grilled red meat. Many of you can try this little treasure before you order. It is currently one of the featured red wines at Le Sélect Bistro in Toronto (and many more cases are on their way). What better excuse for dining at one of the city’s finest restaurants? Charles has given us a very special price for this very special wine. Snag some delightful Cuvée Charles now.

2009 “Witiza” Rouge - 13.5% Alc./Vol.                                $44 per bottle/$264 per case of six
The 2009 “Witzia” Rouge is a premium red made from 39% Mourvèdre, 36% Syrah, 16% Grenache and 9% Carignan. The grapes were hand-picked and hand sorted to ensure that only the best fruit made the final cut. It aged for thirty months, twelve to twenty-four months in oak and was neither fined nor filtered. It is a deep, luminescent purple with a nose dominated by cherries, blackberries, garrigue, spices and a hint of pepper. This is a powerful, fresh, well-balanced wine exhibiting silky tannis with a very elegant finish. This complex, well-bred wine will go wonderfully with grilled and roasted meats, especially roast beef and magret de canard. It is drinking surprisingly well right now (with a couple of hours in the decanter) and will cellar beautifully for at least another decade.

The well-respected French wine and lifestyle magazine Terre de Vins had these glowing remarks for the 2009 “Witiza” in its March/April 2013 issue - This wine is outstanding! Charles-Walter Pacaud has been exploring the potential of his vineyard for more than ten years. His wines have quickly won over the amateurs of refinement; however, this time he plays on the stage of the great. This Witiza 2009 (25 €), in Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac, is an exception. The wine-grower explains that, “It combines the fullness of Languedoc and the freshness of Terrasses”. Out goes the bounty of red berries; in the nose, right away this wine asserts itself as oriental with sandalwood, camphor, eucalyptus and white pepper. On the palate, you will recognize fine fruity flavours and above all extremely refined tannins that are chiselled and crunchy. Freshness prevails in the long, lingering finish. Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache and Carignan on rounded stones and gravel, a 20-hectolitre per hectare yield, a selected harvest, a long vinification in tanks and a thirty-month ageing period, including twelve to twenty four months in barrels depending on varieties. This exceptional cuvée pays tribute to St Benoît d’Aniane (Witiza) who, in 782, allowed Benedictine abbeys to plant vines and to drink wine during meals, thus shaping the Languedoc vineyard. Indeed, right from the 5th century La Croix Chaptal estate belonged to Gellone Abbey in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert.

Only 1,200 bottles of this spectacular wine were made. Get your share now.

Charles’ Red Wine Sampler – 12.5%-13% Alc./Vol.                $26 per bottle/$156 per case of six
You get two bottles each of the 2009 “La Grive & l’Ortolan” and 2008 “Cuvée Charles” and one bottle each of the 2006 ‘Les Terrasses du Larzac” and 2009 “Witiza” in one handy six pack. What a great way to taste Charles’ red wine masterpieces. Order yours now.

Note: all prices include a small per bottle handling fee.

Please pass this bulletin on to others you think might like to take advantage of this offering of Charles Pacaud’s great wines from Les Terrasses du Larzac.

Many thanks and cheers,
Jim and Hélène

Arthur’s Cellar & Co.
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
www.arthursellers.com
hbuisson@ofrance.ca
www.ofrance.ca