We are bringing you something really new and different (and delicious) this time, six outstanding wines from Grande Maison located in the Bergerac wine region of south-western France.

Bergerac

Likely doomed to be forever regarded as the poor cousin of Bordeaux, something the Bordelais have worked hard to perpetuate over the centuries, Bergerac is directly to the east of its much more famous and prosperous neighbour.  While their wines might not be as well regarded, the Bergerac countryside is much more appealing than that of Bordeaux.

The Bergerac area contains 13 Appellations d'Origine Contrôlées (AOCs) for red, white (dry, medium-sweet and sweet), and rosé wines. However, most Bergeracois count just six – Monbazillac, Péchermant, Saussignac, Montravel, Bergerac and Côtes de Bergerac. Approximately 1,200 growers cultivate about 30,000 acres of vines in soils not all that dissimilar to those found in Bordeaux.  The Dordogne River for centuries provided transportation to Atlantic seaports on the workhorse ‘gabarres’ and provides the region with excellent drainage.

The red wines are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, sometimes supplemented by Côt or, less commonly, by Fer Servadou or Mérille. They are often dark in color, with full-bodied flavours. The white wines are mainly a blend of Sémillon with Sauvignon blanc, Sauvignon gris and Muscadelle, to which Ugni blanc, Ondenc and Chenin blanc are sometimes added. These combinations lead to the creation of fruity, dry white wines that can be powerful, and of medium-sweet or sweet wines that are aromatic and powerful.

Fifteen percent of the AOC wines produced are exported, principally to Great Britain, Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands (it was the Dutch who, since the Hundred Years War, stubbornly continued the region’s wine trade up until the Twentieth Century). 

Grande Maison

Your ardent research team hard at work, just for you!

In 1990 the winery was acquired by Thierry Després, variously described as jovial, a fanatic and an individualist, but no one will dispute his passion and ability for wine making, particularly the nectar called Monbazillac. He replanted virtually all of the vines on the estate and achieved ‘organic’ status over twenty years ago, long before it became the popular thing to do.

Your tireless taster with Benjamin Chabrol

In January, 2012 the Chabrol family who hail from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence decided that they wanted to get into the wine-making business. They wanted a top-rated property for sure, but of equally high importance they wanted a large house in which to live. Grande Maison, which was for sale, fit the bill perfectly. Together, Benjamin Chabrol and his father Jean-Louis have carried on Thierry Després’ commitment to make the highest possible quality of Bergerac wines. It is Benjamin along with two full-time employees who carry on the day-to-day operations of this very special winery.

The Wines of Grande Maison

It turns out that your selfless band of intrepid tasters, with a huge assist to Dewey Markham did a pretty good job of winery selection. We subsequently learned that Robert Parker in his in his ‘Wine Buyers Guide’ number 7 rated Grande Maison a five star winery, one of only four ‘Outstanding’ producers in the south-west of France.

Benjamin and I decided that the best way to introduce you to his wonderful wines was offer a six-bottle mixed case sampler of his finest creations – two whites, three reds and one succulent Monbazillac. Each is certified organic (Ecocert), very, very well made and absolutely delicious. All come in 750 ml format and are from very good vintages. We are going to take your orders to the LCBO on Friday, August 9th.

The Grande Maison Bergerac Sampler – 13.0 -13.5% Alc./Vol.    $27/$162 six-bottle case
Benjamin Chabrol and I, ably assisted by the two Davids, Gail, Dianne, Brian, Judy and Hélène have selected the following six beauties from Grande Maison to give you a first-rate introduction to the finest wines from Bergerac:

2011 Cuvée Sophie (White) – Bergerac Sec – 13.5% Alc./Vol.
Crafted from 80% Sémillon, 15% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle, this bright straw coloured white stunner is rich, well-rounded and fresh. The wine (70%) was aged for 12 months in new French oak barriques. The nose offers up rich, complex aromas of ripe fruit (apricots, mangoes, grapefruits and lemons) with notes of vanilla and wet pebbles. In the mouth it is full, beautifully balanced with tangy edges and just plain delicious. It would go marvellously with shell fish, roast chicken and creamy pasta dishes. It is drinking delightfully well now and will evolve and keep nicely for at least another six years.

2010 Tête de Cuvée (White) - Bergerac Sec – 13.5% Alc./Vol.
This is Grande Maison’s finest white and is made from their best Sauvignon Gris (50%), Sauvignon Blanc (30%), Sémillon (15%) and Muscadelle (5%). This wine is aged for 12 months in new French oak. It is a bright, clear yellow with green tints. The nose contains rich aromas of peaches, pears, mangoes, almonds and lemon zest. In the mouth it is full and fruity with a delicate silky texture and pleasant acidity; the finish is long and persistent – a simply delicious white. It too is drinking wonderfully now and will keep for at least another five years. It seems to have been made just for fish in sauce, lobster, crab and shrimp dishes.

2009 Cuvée Opéra (Red) – Bergerac – 13.5% Alc./Vol.
Made completely from hand-picked Merlot, the wine rested in oak barrels for nine months. It is a bright ruby colour and presents fruity aromas of raspberries, strawberries, plums, exotic spices, cocoa and a trace of new leather. All of this carries through in the mouth to be joined by silky smooth, soft tannins, excellent depth and surprising length. This most pleasant sipper is just screaming out for the barbeque or a roast chicken.  It will keep for another couple of years; but why wait. It tastes great right now.

2010 Cuvée Antoinette (Red) – Côtes de Bergerac – 13.5% Alc./Vol.
This truly yummy red is made from 90% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. This is very serious stuff – hand-picked fully ripened grapes, eighteen months of barrel aging and no filtering. It is a deep purple-red and shouts out aromas of strawberries, plums, tobacco and a hint of rawhide. It is a medium-bodied wine with excellent balance, lovely tannins and a wonderful lingering finish. It is very elegant and reminds me of a good Graves. It will be a perfect match for game, roast beef and lamb. Right now it needs a least a couple of hours in a decanter before diving in and will keep happily for at least ten years.

2010 Tête de Cuvée (Red) - Côtes de Bergerac – 13.0% Alc./Vol.
Oh boy! This stunner made completely from hand-picked Merlot that comes from Benjamin’s finest parcel of land is really something. A dark purple red, it rested in new oak for a year and a half and was not filtered before bottling. It yields powerful aromas of ripe plums, strawberries, exotic spices, cocoa, anise and leather. This is a very elegant medium-bodied wine, smooth and supple with rich tannins, great balance and a long, lingering aftertaste.  It will go brilliantly with grilled meats, medium cheese and most meat-based pasta dishes. It really is too young to drink now, but if you must, open it in the morning of the day you are going to drink it. Otherwise, keep your cotton-pickin’ hands off it for two or three years; better yet cellar it for a decade

2009 Cuvée du Château (Sweet) – Monbazillac – 13.0% Alc./Vol.
All righty then, here is Grande Maison’s piece de resistance – the 2009 Monbazillac Cuvée du Château. They make five different Monbazillac wines; this is their premium cuvée that is exceeded only by their very rare Cuvée du Monstres which costs more than twice as much. This elegant, powerful bottle of succulent sweetness is created from 60% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Muscadelle from grapes that have been subjected to that Noble Rot – Botrytis Cinerea. Are you ready for the yield … 10 to 12 hl/ha! The grapes of course are all hand-picked with several passes through the vineyards to collect only truly ripe grapes and it rests in new oak barrels for up to three years. This is very, very serious stuff. It is a light amber colour and emits wondrous aromas of honey, apples, candied fruits, bees wax and a hint of smoke. In the mouth it is simply heavenly – rich, full, sweet (natch), elegant and pleasing crisp. Drink this wine as an aperitif, with foie gras, spicy cooking, fermented blue cheese, courses or desserts with fruit... It id drinking well right now and will mature nicely for at least ten years. Marvelous stuff.

So there you have it - six really interesting and delicious wines from the mysterious Bergerac region of south-western France. Give yourself a real treat and order your Bergerac treasure trove now.

If you would like a six-bottle case of any of these wines, let me know and I will provide you with the price and will order them for you. And, if you would like to try something quite extraordinary and would like some of Grande Maison’s Monbazillac Cuvée du Monstres (yield just 3.5 hl/ha, only two barrels made per year) at a mere $90 the bottle, do let me know and I’ll see if I can pry some loose from Benjamin (I know he has several vintages and formats tucked away).

Please note that the above prices include a small per bottle handling (and tasting!) fee.

Know anyone who might enjoy some exciting wines from Bergerac? If you do, please pass this note on and invite them to join the tipplers of Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club.

Many thanks and cheers!

Jim and Hélène
www.arthursellers.com
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
hbuisson@ofrance.com

PS: Does a visit to Bergerac and the Dordogne appeal? If so, check out www.ofrance.ca and consider joining Hélène and me there in the spring of 2014.