Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
Ready for some really good Burgundies? Well, here they are. We are delighted to bring back the beautiful Burgundies from Domaine des Terres de Velle, this time the very good, albeit very small 2012 vintage. Sophie and Fabrice Laronze, owners of this little bit of paradise just outside the village of Auxey-Duresses (pictured above) are very pleased with their 2012s, but wish there were a lot more of them. All of their 2012 wines have been spoken for except the small amount we have reserved (a privilege we enjoy because we supported Sophie and Fabrice from the day they created the winery). Please order early to avoid disappointment.
Domaine des Terres de Velle We first met Sophie and Fabrice when they were marketing manager and wine-maker respectively for the successful Burgundy vintner, Alex Gambal. Alex used to purchase most of his grapes from growers throughout Burgundy. Fabrice wanted more control over what happened in the vineyard, believing that a great bottle of wine owed its stature to what happened there. After an amicable parting with Alex in 2009, the Laronzes acquired eleven separate plots of mature vines in choice areas of the Côtes de Beaune in Burgundy (about five hectares in all). More recently they have purchased a village parcel in Chassagne-Montrachet and two neighbouring premier crus in Meursault, Les Charmes and Puligny-Montrachet, Les Referts. The total estate now stands at about six hectares which yields fourteen different wines and around 30,000 bottles annually (in a normal year).
While the brand might be new, (the Velle River runs through the domaine; hence ‘the lands of the Velle’) the Laronzes are no neophytes when it comes to producing first-rate wine. Fabrice studied oenology in Beaune and Montpellier and then toiled for a few Burgundy houses and at Mirimar Torres in Sonoma. He joined forces with Alex Gambal in the late 1990s and helped him find juice and grapes throughout Burgundy, acquire vineyards and produce ten vintages of stellar Burgundy that have garnered well-earned international acclaim.
Sophie did marketing work for Albert Bichot in Beaune and the barrel-maker, Tonellerie de Mercury before joining Fabrice at Maison Alex Gambal.
The pair is committed to the principles of sustainable viticulture, eschewing chemical intervention (no herbicides or pesticides) in favour of natural processes in the vineyards and chais. They rigorously debud their vines during the growing season in order to improve ventilation (reducing the chance of mildew) and to concentrate the juice thereby enhancing the complexity of the remaining grapes. The grapes are hand-picked and sorted. The wine is neither fined nor filtered and is produced in very small quantities. They firmly believe that great wine is created in the vineyard, not manufactured in the winery. To sum up, they make very, very serious wine.
What Sophie says about the 2012 Vintage in Burgundy “The 2012 growing season was abnormal. It started off well. After normal winter frost, we had very nice weather in March and we were happy to go back into the vineyards. But, beginning in April, nothing went right. Between April and July the Côte de Beaune received more than fifty percent of its annual rainfall. We had frost on May 18th that affected our vines in Chassagne-Montrachet. Then there was hail on June 30th in Volnay and again on August 1st in Auxey, Meursault, and Puligny that destroyed both the leaves and grapes. And then there was a very hot week at the end of July that burnt some of the grapes. Mercifully, August and September were beautiful.
When we started harvesting on September 21st, only a few berries were left on each bunch, but these were healthy and ripe. The quality was very high, but the quantities were disastrous. We were able to produce only 14,000 bottles from the 2012 vintage compared to 30,000 in a normal year.
The 2012 white wines are very aromatic and have huge complexity. In the mouth their balance and great concentration give them a nice potential for aging. The 2012 reds are rich and intense. The tannins are ripe and silky and the wines are very harmonious. They too have good potential for aging.”
The 2012 Domaine des Terres de Velle Burgundies on Offer All of the hard work in the fields paid huge dividends in terms of quality if not quantity for the 2012 vintage at Domaine des Terres de Velle. The resulting wines really are terrific. Here’s what we have selected from the very small but very good 2012 vintage: six whites (Chardonnay) – Bourgogne Chardonnay, Meursault, Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, Chassagne-Montrachet La Platière, Puligny-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts; and five reds (Pinot Noirs) – Bourgogne Pinot Noir; Auxey-Duresses Les Closeaux, Monthélie 1er Cru Les Duresses, Volnay Ez Blanches and Volnay 1er Cru Le Ronceret.
Sophie and Fabrice have created a very special mixed cased - the Terres de Velle Grand Sampler which contains one bottle each of the Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, Chassagne-Montrachet La Platière, 2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, Monthélie 1er Cru Les Duresses, Volnay Ez Blanches and Volnay 1er Cru Le Ronceret.
They all come in six-bottle cases. We will be taking your orders to the LCBO on Friday, March 28th.
The Whites
2012 Bourgogne Chardonnay – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $33/$198 case of 6 This is a really lovely, classic Burgundian Chardonnay that will be a real crowd pleaser. It comes from three parcels, one just below Puligny and the other two in Meursault. Offering forth a surprisingly big bouquet of pineapple, pear, peach and spices that carry through nicely in the mouth, it has a pleasant underlying acidity and minerality and is wonderfully balanced. This very serious Chardonnay will go delightfully with shellfish, oriental cuisine and roast chicken. It is an amazing value. Order some of this delicious Chardonnay now.
2012 Meursault – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $65/$390 case of 6 This gorgeous village Meursault is a real Chardonnay pleasure. It is aged for several months in oak, 25% of which is new. It is a brilliant medium straw colour with full aromas of pineapple, pear, spice (nutmeg?), a touch of vanilla and a nice nip of minerals. It is reasonably big, voluptuous and fully satisfying in the mouth. It is hard to believe that this is not a 1er Cru. This succulent mouthful will go wonderfully with scampies (I am starting to drool!), trout sautéed in butter and roast chicken. Order your classic Meursault now.
2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $110/$660 case of 6 Located adjacent to Puligny, the vines for this charmer were planted in 1936! The juice is matured for eighteen months in oak barrels, forty percent new. This rich, full, complex, luscious wine is more golden than yellow. It offers up a very complex medley of seductive aromas that include a mix of ripe fruit (peaches, apricots and pears) white flowers (jasmine) , hazelnuts, almonds, honey and citrus (lemon). In the mouth it is most refined and pleasing with sensations of butter, warm croissants and spices added to the cornucopia of aromas. This magnificent wine will cellar nicely for several years and would be a heavenly companion for fresh lobster or shrimps. Order your magnificent mouthful of Burgundy splendor now.
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet La Platière – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $73/$438 case of 6 This gorgeous wine comes from 24 year old vines situated near the Abbaye de Morgeot. It is a classic Chassagne-Montrachet with aromas of green herbs, white fruit, wet pebbles and exotic spices. In the mouth it is not quite as rich as the Meursault but has more depth with penetrating, fine acidity and good, sweet length. It will go wonderfully with seafood and medium cheese. If you enjoy Chassagne-Montrachet, you’ll certainly be pleased with this one. Order your elegant Chardonnay now.
2012 Puligny-Montrachet – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $78/$468 case of 6 I’m a sucker for good Puligny-Montrachet and this is indeed very good. It comes from Les Noroyes under the Clos des Mouchére and Les Levrons. This wine spent several months in lightly toasted oak, a third of which was new. It has lovely aromas of peaches, a hint of pineapple, minerals and spice. In the mouth it is medium weight, full and fresh with lovely acidity. This beauty would be marvellous arm candy for roast fowl, white fish and medium cheese. Order your sunshine in a glass now.
2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru – Les Referts – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $110/$660 case of 6 Situated between Les Perrières in Puligny and Les Charmes in Meursault, the southeast facing vines for this extraordinary wine are thirty years old. The juice is matured for eighteen months in oak barrels, forty percent new. It is a bright yellow colour and has a refined, delicate nose of Honeysuckle, almonds, ripe apples, hazelnuts, caramel and honey. In the mouth it is perfectly balanced, full and stylish with good minerality which gives this wine great aging potential. It will pair splendidly with grilled scallops or sea bass. Only a few hundred bottles were produced. Order your most seductive, wondrous Puligny-Montrachet now.
The Reds
2012 Bourgogne Pinot Noir – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $33/$188 case of 6 This little beauty comes from two very different but complimentary parcels, one in the area of Puligny-Montrachet and the other in Volnay where the forty year old vines give the wine its excellent structure. The wine spent twelve to fifteen months in oak, 10%-15% new and like all the Domaine des Terres de Velle wines was neither fined nor filtered. A brilliant ruby colour, the nose offers up fresh, vibrant scents of red berries, particularly raspberries and delicate spices. In the mouth it is simply delightful – beautifully structured with light to medium weight and very soft tannins. This very pleasing wine is drinking beautifully now (and will cellar happily for at least three years) and would be an ideal accompaniment for roast chicken and beef. Order your most delightful red Burgundy now.
2012 Auxey-Duresses Les Closeaux – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $44/$264 case of six This village Burgundy is a sheer delight. It came from forty year old vines and rested in oak for twelve to fifteen months, 20% new. It is a lovely ruby/purple with a wonderful nose of fresh, ripe red fruit, savoury spices and a hint of new leather. In the mouth it is nicely balanced with soft tannins. This is a light to medium-bodied wine that can best be described as yummy. I would like to see it cellared for a year or two for it to reach its full potential. This too will go wonderfully with roast chicken or pork. Order your Burgundy charmer now.
2012 Monthélie 1er Cru – Les Duresses – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $62/$372 case of six This truly lovely Pinot Noir comes from a block of thirty year old vines located near those of the Hospices de Beaune and was matured in thirty percent new oak for a year and a half. A brilliant ruby colour, the nose is reminiscent of Volnay, full of elegant black fruit (cherries and blackberries), spices and a hint of leather. Medium-bodied, it sports delightful acidity and minerality that balance the fruit perfectly. This splendid red, which will age well for several years, will pair beautifully with classic Burgundian dishes such as coq au vin or escargot in a light butter/garlic sauce. Only a few hundred bottles were produced. Order your heavenly Burgundy now.
2012 Volnay Ez Blanches – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $63/$378 case of six Anyone who loves Volnay (count me in) will be delighted with this brilliant village wine. It spent sixteen to eighteen months on oak, 30% of it new. This beauty is a sparkling, clear ruby with aromas of fresh, delicate red fruit (raspberries and strawberries), wet pebbles, spices and a bit of rawhide. In the mouth it is simply elegant - medium-bodied with supple tannins and satisfying length. Drinking well now, I would try to resist it for another year or two. This really delightful red is a perfect match for coq au vin, a creamy veal stew or a plate of medium cheeses. Order your bottles of pure elegance now
2012 Volnay 1er Cru Le Ronceret – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $83/$498 case of six This is a simply wonderful Volnay. Once again, yields were low and the wine rested in oak for a year and a half, 25% of it new. It is a vibrant medium ruby colour and offers up elegant aromas of raspberries, new leather, spices and minerals. In the mouth it is wonderfully concentrated, delicate, elegant and fresh with soft tannins and a nice mineral finish. I personally would sip this slowly by itself (giggling contentedly all the while), but it will go smashingly with Coq au Vin and other traditional Burgundy fare. Yum! Order your excellent premier cru Volnay now.
2012 Terres de Velle Grand Sampler – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $85/$510 case of six What a great way to try the finest 2012 Burgundies from Domaine des Terres de Velle. You get one bottle each of the Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, Chassagne-Montrachet La Platière, 2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, Monthélie 1er Cru Les Duresses, Volnay Ez Blanches and Volnay 1er Cru Le Ronceret in one convenient six-pack. This would also make a great gift for any Burgundy lovers you might know. Order your deluxe Burgundy tasting kit now.
We would be most grateful if you would pass this note on to anyone you think would be interested in some beautiful Burgundies from an exciting new vineyard. Also, please invite your friends, relatives, acquaintances and casual strangers to join Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club – no annual fees or other obligations; just great wine.
Many thanks and cheers!
Jim and Hélène
jaswalker@arthursellers.com www.arthursellers.com hbuisson@ofrance.ca www.ofrance.ca
