Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
We found out about these marvellous wines about four years ago from a familiar source – Christian Esparza, our long-time friend, purveyor of fine wines in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and enthusiastic co-conspirator in the discovery of great wines for our wine club. Those of you who ordered these wines the past three years clamoured for more. They are so good and so reasonably priced, it is no wonder. Included this time are the Wine Spectator 91 rated 2012 Les Perrottes and amazing 2011 Les Agapans Rouge that is conjured up from Grenache vines averaging more than 100 years of age.
Domaine de Poulvarel
Domaine de Poulvarel is owned by Pascal and Elisabeth Glas. In 2004 Pascal, after working with various wine producers for twenty-five years, convinced Elisabeth that it was time to take the big plunge and create their own winery on the old grape growing properties that their families had owned for generations. The estate is located just outside Sernhac, an old Saracen village found near the majestic Roman aqueduct, the Pont du Gard (pictured at the beginning of this Bulletin). The vines are old, yields are kept low, the grapes are hand-picked and sorted and the wines are impeccably made in the new state-of-the art winery. Pascal and Elisabeth make very, very good wines that are attracting the attention of the wine press and foreign buyers. They have received 90 pluses from Robert Parker, three stars from the Guide Hachette and a Coup de Coeur from La Revue des Vins de France. And, James Molesworth of the ‘Wine Spectator’ deems them to be a “Top Producer” of the Costières de Nîmes.
Costières de Nîmes
The Costières de Nîmes was established in 1989 and is, to quote Jancis Robinson in ‘The Oxford Companion to Wine’, “… the generally reliable and well-priced southernmost appellation of the Rhône. In French wine politics, it used to be considered part of the eastern Languedoc but the climate, soil, topography – and wines – are closer to those just over the river in the southern Côtes du Rhône vineyards. This is an important zone for the production of Vin de Pays. As in the nearby southern Rhône, Grenache is an important vine variety here, and must represent at least 25% of any red (to qualify as AOC Costières de Nîmes). Syrah and Mourvèdre are becoming increasingly popular in many of the best wines and must each total at least 20 per cent of the blend. This is an appellation in transition, not just geographically between the Languedoc and the Rhône, but temporarily between a bulk wine producer and a source of genuinely characterful, well-made wines”. Excellent examples found at the LCBO are the very good wines made by Mas de Bressades.
Vin de Pays d’Oc
Jancis goes on to say, “The most single important vin de pays is Vin de Pays d’Oc, which is France’s prime source of varietal wine. About 85 per cent of all vin de pays come from Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, or the southern Rhône. The pioneer was Mas de Daumas Gassac, an internationally famous wine which is sold merely as a departmental Vin de Pays de l’Hérault. But there are now scores, if not hundreds of equally ambitious producers of vin de pays, especially in the Languedoc-Roussillon, making some of the best value wines in the world.”
The Wines of Domaine de Poulvarel
We have three yummy whites and four heavenly reds for you, each carefully crafted by Pascal and Elisabeth. In addition, Elisabeth and Pascale have created two marvellous samplers for us – one featuring their white wines, the other their reds. All come in six-bottle cases. We are going to take your orders to the LCBO on Friday, June 6th.
Don’t let the low prices, the unfamiliar appellation or the vin de pays status deter you. These are terrific wines and I enthusiastically suggest that, at the very least, you order each of the Samplers so that you too can revel in the yumminess of the Domaine de Poulvarel wines.
2013 Sauvignon Blanc – 13.5% Alc./Vol. $17/$102 six-bottle case Made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, this stunning sipper, a Vin du Pays d’Oc has all of the pleasant Sauvignon characteristics with none of the nastiness. It is a clear, pale straw colour with green glints. The nose possesses lovely, fresh aromas of pineapple, pears, tangerines, spice, minerals and a hint of coconut. It tastes great too – round, full, fruity with a nice citrus finish. This wine is dangerously easy to drink. Chilled, it will go delightfully with grilled fish and shellfish. It would also be just perfect to sip while preparing a meal or enjoying the patio on a lazy summer’s day. Many who ordered previous versions asked for more! Drinking wonderfully now, it will keep for another two or three years. Order your irresistible dollop of sunshine now.
2013 Poulvarel Domaine Blanc – 13.5% Alc./Vol. $20/$120 six-bottle case This AOP Costières de Nîmes is a more complex wine than the Sauvignon Blanc. It is made from a third each of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier and is a medium straw colour. This has a big nose that includes loads of lively fruit (candied lemon, apricots and peaches), honey and floral scents. It is simply wonderful in the mouth – generous, unctuous, and beautifully balanced with a lovely, long citrus aftertaste. This to me is a food wine that chilled will go brilliantly with creamed chicken, fish in sauce and goat cheese such as pélardon. It too will keep nicely for two or three years. I challenge you to find a more enjoyable white wine for $20! Order this expressive beauty now.
2013 Les Cantarelles Blanc – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $26/$156 six-bottle case This stunning Vin du Pay d’Oc is crafted from 30% Grenache Blanc, 30% Viognier, 30% Roussanne and 10% Sauvignon from vines averaging 40 years of age. It rests eight months on its lees in small oak barrels. A clear, brilliant light golden colour, it has an expressive, lively nose of peaches, green apples, pineapple, white flowers, lavender and minerals. In the mouth it is big, beautifully balanced and complex, full of finesse with a gorgeous lingering finish. It is simply screaming out to be paired with a poêlée de coquilles saint jacques persillées. It will keep nicely for up to five years. This is definitely a connoisseur’s wine, but at this price, the rest of us can enjoy it too. In fact, we chose the preceding vintage as the white wine at daughter Kate’s wedding. Order this elegant lip smacker now.
2013 Poulvarel White Wine Sampler – 13.0/.5% Alc./Vol. $21/$126 six-bottle case Talk about refreshing! You get two bottles each of the 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, Domaine Blanc and Les Cantarelles Blanc in one handy case. This is a white wine lover’s treasure trove. Order your delectable white wine six pack now.
2011 Merlot – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $17/$102 six-bottle case Made 100% from Merlot averaging thirty plus years of age and with a yield of less than 27 hl./ha., this Vin du Pay d’Oc is a dark ruby/purple. The pronounced nose is chock-full of jammy cherries and blackberries, exotic spices, cocoa and a trace of new leather. All of this carries through in the mouth to be joined by silky smooth, soft tannins, excellent depth and surprising length. I love it and no wonder it is the top selling wine at Christian Esparza’s shop in Saint-Rémy. It will be drinking perfectly when it arrives in three months and will go smashingly with grilled or roasted meats, pasta dishes, charcuterie and medium cheeses. A gold medal winner at the Concours des Vins Gardois 2013, it is hard to believe that you can get a wine this good at this price ... but you can! Order your marvellous Merlot now.
2012 Poulvarel Domaine Rouge – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $20/$120 six-bottle case Made from 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, this AOP Costières de Nîmes has all of the savoury aspects of a top notch Côtes du Rhône to which it is closely related. It is a brilliant dark plum colour with ruby glints. The full nose is of black cherries, raspberries, black currants, black olives, garrigue, mocha, saddle leather and just a hint of pine. In the mouth it is simply hedonistic - big, smooth and round with lovely tannins and a long, lingering aftertaste that one prays never goes away. I can only imagine how good it is going to be in a year or two. At present it needs to be decanted a couple of hours before serving with rib steaks, roasts or game. Order an incredible red wine value now.
2011 Les Perrottes Rouge – 14.0% Alc./Vol. $26/$156 six- bottle case Despite what Jeb Dunnuck says, this exalted beauty is a classic southern Rhône blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 20% Grenache from vines averaging fifty years of age. All hand-picked, the yield is a low thirty-five hl/ha. It was aged half in oak and half in concrete tanks for 12 months. A deep purple/brick colour, it is perfumed and very aromatic with loads of pretty red and black fruit, underbrush, violets, cacao, spices and black pepper on the nose. Medium-bodied and supple on the palate, it is wonderfully fresh and lively and possesses juicy acidity. This truly lovely red will go splendidly with roast beef or lamb and with most pasta dishes. Drinking wonderfully now, it will continue to evolve positively for at least the next three to five years. Only 13,000 bottles produced. Order your truly delicious, highly praised red now.
2011 Les Agapans Rouge – 14.5% Alc./Vol. $46/$276 six-bottle case Ready for an extraordinary treat?? The 2011 (a wonderful vintage) Les Agapans is a very special and rare wine, released to us as a special treat for the Members of Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club. This AOP Costières de Nîmes elder citizen is made from 100% Grenache from vines averaging well over 100 years of age (talk about gnarly) with a yield of only fifteen hectolitre per hectare. It is 100% aged in small old oak barrels (one, two and three years old) for twenty-four months. It is a very dark purple, almost inky. The aromas explode from the bottle – stewed plums and black cherries, black currant jam, fine cigar tobacco, exotic spices, just a hint of pepper and saddle leather. It is a real pleasure in the mouth where the aromas persist – round, full, complex, voluptuous and very long. It is drinking marvellously right now and will last for at least another decade. This really does taste like a top-notch Châteauneuf du Pape! Sip it like good Cognac or partner it with a well-aged rib steak – crisp on the outside and not too well done inside mind. Only 1,200 bottles made. Order your smashing centenarian now.
The Poulvarel Red Wine Sampler – 14.0/14.5% Alc./Vol. $26/$156 six-bottle case You receive one bottle of the 2011 Merlot, two bottles each of the 2012 Domaine Rouge and 2011 Les Perrottes Rouge and one bottle of the 2011 Les Agapans all wrapped up in one neat carton. This is a no brainer for anyone who loves well-priced, superb red wine. Order this sublime red wine six-pack now.
The LCBO is the only entity authorized to sell beverage alcohol in Ontario. Arthur Sellers & Company and Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club do not sell or markup beverage alcohol, but rather, arrange for customers to purchase it from the LCBO. Our prices indicated above and on our website include the LCBO sale price plus a fee to cover the cost of sourcing, handling and marketing the wine. The LCBO’s sale prices are available on request.
Know anyone who might enjoy some amazing wines from southern France? If you do, please pass this note on and invite them to join the tipplers of Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club.
Many thanks and cheers!
Jim, Hélène and Kate www.arthursellers.com jaswalker@arthursellers.com www.ofrance.ca hbuisson@ofrance.ca kwalker@arthursellers.com
