The 2012 Gigondas from Domaine du Cayron has just been released and because it is in very short supply, we have decided to introduce it now in order to make sure we are able to fill our members’ requirements. The winery is owned by the Faraud family and they make their wine the old fashioned way. It is very, very good. This is a top Gigondas from a very good year. Be sure to add some to your collection.
Gigondas
As Robert Parker notes in his excellent book ‘Wines of the Rhône Valley’, “Gigondas remains one of the wine world’s great bargains. Gigondas is never a shy or subtle wine. Its appeal is its robust, frank, generous, extroverted character, in addition to its value. It is to be savoured and admired because of these virtues. Great wines from Gigondas will rival those of its neighbor Châteauneuf du Pape and the wines produced under the skillful hands of the Faraud family often do just that.”
The 2012 Vintage in the Southern Rhône
In the November 30, 2014 edition of the Wine Spectator, James Molesworth says this about the 2012 vintage in the Southern Rhône, “The 2012 reds from France’s Rhône Valley offer very ripe fruit profiles that are also elegant and fresh, with excellent length thanks to fine-grained and racy tannins that will help the wines cellar nicely. In a vintage that saw either inconsistent or lackluster results from several of France’s other prominent wine-growing regions, the Rhône Valley bucked the trend. Outside of Châteauneuf du Pape (which he highly regards), the Southern Rhône logged a very consistent performance in 2012. Gigondas also offers wines of classic and outstanding quality, with serious aging potential.”
Here is how the ‘Wine Spectator’ rates the recent vintages in the Southern Rhône:
2012
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93
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2007
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95
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2011
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91
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2006
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93
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2010
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98
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2005
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97
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2009
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94
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2004
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93
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2008
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88
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Domaine du Cayron
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Cendrine, Roseline et Hélène
(that ancient press is still in service!)
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Considered by many to be the benchmark producer in the appellation, (Robert Parker includes it as one of only three ‘Outstanding’ producers of the region) Cayron crafts a Gigondas of phenomenal richness and incredible longevity. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more terroir-expressive wine anywhere in the Southern Rhone. Furthermore, Cayron is among the most age-worthy of Gigondas, delicious upon release, but improving for well over a decade and holding strong for a long time thereafter. This 16-hectare domaine is a classic and truly top-flight estate.
Established in 1840, Domaine du Cayron is situated at the entrance of the picturesque village of Gigondas. The property (including a very special plot of seventy-five year old gnarled Grenache) has been owned and managed by the Faraud family for the past five generations. Michel Faraud recently turned over the operation of his winery to his three daughters, Delphine, Cendrine and Roseline. They spend a great deal of time in the vineyard, restricting yields and always hand harvesting the grapes at their maximum ripeness. The grapes are hand pressed in an ancient wood press and the wine then rests in old wood tanks for up to a year before it is bottled. The Farauds don’t fine or filter their Gigondas and the massive amount of ripe black fruit flavors found in their wine is always tempered by a profoundly complex expression of the terroir. It is important to note that each vintage is truly unique. The wine is being made the way the Farauds want it made. Their Gigondas is not manipulated to appeal to the prejudices of wine importers or writers. They don’t have to – each vintage is practically spoken for before the bottling begins.
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The Wine
The standard bottles are available in six-bottle cases, while the magnums (1500 ml) come in three-bottle cases and the jéroboam (double magnum; 3000 ml) one to the case. We plan to take your orders to the LCBO on Friday, December 19th. Don’t miss out on this one!
2012 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas – 14.0% Alc./Vol.
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This classic Gigondas was crafted from70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 14% Syrah and a dollop of Mourvèdre. The yield was thirty-two hectoliters per hectare and came from vines averaging more than forty years of age. The grapes were hand harvested and were not destemmed. The cap was punched down daily during the alcoholic fermentation and the wine was neither fined nor filtered. The finished wine rested in old oak tanks for between six and twelve months.
We tried it from the barrel in September and loved it. This is every bit as good as a fine Châteauneuf du Pape. In fact, I’d be hard pressed to tell the difference. It is drinking surprisingly well now, but will get even better over the next decade. Great stuff!
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Cendrine getting a sample for us from an old vat
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The fine 2012 is an intense, ruby colour and offers up full, complex aromas of highly perfumed raspberries, cherries, black currants, underbrush, pepper, and hints of allspice and lavender. In the mouth it is opulent - silky and elegant, very well-balanced and full with notes of white pepper and minerals on the lingering finish. It will go wonderfully with magret de canard, boeuf bourguignon, roasts, game and most cheese.
Here’s what Jeb Dunnick of ‘The Wine Advocate’ has to say about the 2012 Domaine de Cayron Gigondas, “Looking just as good (as the 2011), the 2012 Gigondas offers loads of leafy herbs, licorice, underbrush, spring flowers and blackcurrant-styled aromas and flavors in its medium to full-bodied, balanced personality. Nicely texture(d)with solid freshness and purity, it will have 10-12 years of longevity.
One of my favorite estates in Gigondas, Domaine du Cayron is run by the three Faraud sisters, Cendrine, Roseline and Delphine. The estate covers roughly 40 acres, spread throughout the appellation, and they produce a single Gigondas that’s a blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 14% Syrah and a splash of Mourvedre. The style here is staunchly traditional, and their wines always show the gamier, wilder side of Gigondas. Score 91-93 Points”
And, Stephen Tanzer enthuses, “Bright ruby. Raspberry, lavender and passion fruit on the exotic, highly aromatic nose. Spicy, sappy and concentrated, offering intense red fruit liqueur, apricot and floral pastille flavors that expand with air. There's a delicacy here that's surprising given the wine's power. Singular and wild in the best sense, with gentle tannins and superb finishing clarity, thrust and length. Score 94.”
Some say it is ready to drink now, but I think that would be like committing infanticide! I’d cellar it for at least a couple of years before happily approaching it. Order your classic Gigondas now.
* silkscreen collector’s edition magnum and jéroboam
The LCBO is the only entity authorized to sell beverage alcohol in Ontario. Arthur Sellers & Company and Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club do not sell or markup beverage alcohol, but rather, arrange for customers to purchase it from the LCBO. Our prices indicated above and on our website include the LCBO sale price plus a fee to cover the cost of sourcing, handling and marketing the wine. The LCBO’s sale prices are available on request.
Please pass this note on to anyone else you think might be interested in some superb, classic Gigondas from a storied southern Rhône estate.
Many thanks and cheers,
Jim, Hélène and Kate
www.arthursellers.com
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
www.ofrance.ca
hbuisson@ofrance.ca
kwalker@arthursellers.com
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