Arthur Sellers Bulletin Archive
Dear Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club Member:
Domaine Palon The estate is located just below the fairytale village of Gigondas between Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine in the heart of Provence. The property covers fifteen hectares: seven devoted to Gigondas; five to Vacqueyras; two to Côtes du Rhône, and; one to table wine. The Palons produce a very limited quantity of superb wine each year.
Domaine Palon is a real family affair with a century-long grape growing tradition. Back in 1915, Valérie and Léopold Palon were wine makers in Gigondas and their son Jean founded the Cave Coopérative de Gigondas and served as its administrator from 1956 to 1978. His son, Jean-Pierre took over the reins of the co-op in 1978 (Jean-Pierre’s wife Annie was the financial director) and ran it until 2001, all the while selling his grapes to the same co-op. When Jean-Pierre’s son Sébastien graduated from oenology school, the family decided to leave the co-op and start making their own wines. 2003 was their first vintage.
Jeb Dunnuck (Wine Advocate) on the 2012 Southern Rhônes
“Gigondas is by far the standout, with extremely high-quality 2012s. In fact, I was shocked at the overall quality of the 2012s from this appellation, and in addition to the normal spice-driven aromatics and big structure that accompanies most wines from the region, the 2012s have beautiful purity of fruit and voluptuous, rounded textures that were hard to spit. Vacqueyras was also successful, more so in 2012 than 2011, with the majority of the releases being more mid-weight, charming and upfront.”
My takes on the 2013, 2014 and 2015 vintages in the Southern Rhône: Summer was cool and wet in 2013 resulting in a sub-standard Grenache crop. Decent wine was possible, but only with arduous sorting. But even the decent wine is somewhat one dimensional and unexciting. With lots of 2012s still around and the decent 2014 vintage upon us, I would keep away from the 2013s.
2014 was a bit hotter and drier during the prime growing months, but still the Grenache was late to mature (if it ever did in some vineyards). Once again, careful hand sorting was necessary and those who did so, like the Palons, made very descent wines reminiscent of the 2011s.
From what we saw and learned from our vintners during the harvest, 2015 looks to be a very, very good year in the Southern Rhône. It was a hot summer and the Grenache ripened beautifully. Time will tell, but I can hardly wait to try them.
The Wines of Domaine Palon
We are delighted to once again offer you the wondrous southern Rhônes from Domaine Palon – this time the 2014 Côtes-du-Rhone ‘Cuvée Esparza’; 2014 Vacqueyras Rouge; 2014 Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’, and; 2014 Gigondas Rouge. Oh yes, we have the 2012 Vacqueyras and 2012 Gigondas in magnums as well.
And, the Palons have created a Sampler for us containing three bottles each of the 2014 Vacqueyras, two bottles of the 2014 Gigondas Rouge and one bottle of the 2014 Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’. All but the magnums (3 magnum cases) come in six-bottle cartons. We will be taking your orders to the LCBO on Friday, October 30th.
2014 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Cuvée Esparza’ – 14.0% Alc./Vol. 22/$132 for 6 This is a good Côtes du Rhone from a better than average vintage. It is comprised of 69% Grenache, 16% Syrah and 15% Cinsault all hand-picked from the Palon’s vineyards in Vacqueyras and Sablet. The yield was only 15 hl/ha! It is a dark ruby colour with hints of violet. The nose is of pronounced aromas of ripe cherries, plums, fresh strawberries, garrigue, smoke, new leather, cassis and a hint of pepper. In the mouth it is big and satisfying. Served slightly chilled (16°-17°) it will go splendidly with roasts, grilled meats and medium cheeses. It will keep quite happily for three to five years. Order your southern Rhône now.
2014 Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’ – 13.0% Alc./Vol. $29/$174 for six I love this elegant white wine. It is comprised of 80% Clairette and 20% Grenache Blanc, all hand-picked of course from vines averaging more than forty-five years old. The yield was but 13 hl/ha! It has seen some new oak, but not too much. It is a bright yellow-gold colour with a vibrant nose of grilled almonds, peaches, pears, honeysuckle, vanilla, exotic spices, toast and the slightest hint of petrol. It is very smooth and extremely well balanced – lots of fruit offset by a gorgeous acidity. It is fresh, complex and finishes with a burst of citrus. It would be perfect, served at about 8°, with oysters, other shellfish and rich poultry dishes. This is very yummy stuff indeed, very reminiscent of a top-flight Châteauneuf-du-Pape white. It will cellar nicely for at least five years. Caution, there is very little of it. Order your scarce and delicious white now.
2014 Vacqueyras Rouge – 14.5% Alc./Vol. $29/$174 for 6 This gorgeous, medium-bodied wine is made from 75% Grenache, 16% Mourvèdre and 9% Syrah, hand-picked from vines averaging more than forty-five years old. It is a bright, clear ruby with complex aromas of plums, prunes, raspberries, black cherries, currants, new leather, Provençal spices and a trace of black pepper and cloves. In the mouth it is fresh and lively with surprising complexity and excellent balance. And, oh those delicate, silky Palon tannins. This wine has lots of character, depth and substance and will go beautifully with roasted fowl and charcuterie. This lovely concoction is a real pleasure to drink right now and will continue be so for another five to eight years of years. Order some for your drinking pleasure.
2014 Gigondas Rouge – 14.5% Alc./Vol. $32/$192 for 6 This elegant Gigondas is made from 79% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 6% Mourvèdre hand-picked from vines averaging well over fifty years of age. The Syrah and Mourvèdre are aged for twelve months in new oak casks. It is a dark crimson with pronounced aromas of raspberries, prunes, black cherry jam, pepper, roasted coffee beans, garrigue and spice. It is surprisingly big and velvety (even more so than the 2011 vintage) in the mouth with gentle tannins and impressive length. I’d like to see another six months to a year on it to get everything in proper balance. Served just below room temperature, this impressive wine will go perfectly with magrets de canard, wild game, roasts and medium cheeses. I’d decant it for at least an hour before drinking. It will cellar well for eight to ten years. Get a great southern Rhône now.
Palon Southern Rhône Sampler – 13.0% - 14.5% Alc./Vol. $30/$180 for 6 This is a great way to try three beautiful and distinctive Southern Rhônes from Domaine Palon. You get three bottles of the 2014 Vacqueyras Rouge, two bottles of the 2014 Gigondas Rouge and one bottle of the 2014 Vacqueyras ‘Blanc du Bary’. A taste of the Southern Rhône just doesn’t get much better than this. Order your six pack of pure elegance now.
2012 Vacqueyras Rouge Magnums - 14.0% Alc./Vol. $64/$192 for 3 2012 Gigondas Rouge Magnums - 14.8% Alc./Vol. $70/$210 for 3
Order your 2012 Vacqueyras magnums or 2012 Gigondas magnums now.
The LCBO is the only entity authorized to sell beverage alcohol in Ontario. Arthur Sellers & Company and Arthur’s Cellar Wine Club do not sell or markup beverage alcohol, but rather, arrange for customers to purchase it from the LCBO. Our prices indicated above and on our website include the LCBO sale price plus a fee to cover the cost of sourcing, handling and marketing the wine. The LCBO’s sale prices are available on request.
It would be really spiffy if you would pass this note on to anyone you think might be interested in some very, very good Southern Rhônes.
Many thanks and cheers!
Jim, Hélène and Kate www.arthursellers.com jaswalker@arthursellers.com www.ofrance.ca hbuisson@ofrance.ca kwalker@arthursellers.com