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Our good friend Jean-Jacques Sabon
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Sometimes, everything comes together and the result in something truly wonderful. This is what we find with the 2007 Lirac and Chateauneuf du Pape from Domaine Roger Sabon (see ‘Selections’ for some background on this fabled winery).
The 2007 vintage in Southern France was wonderful. Here is what Robert M. Parker (Wine Advocate Issue 179) said about it, “Throughout the southern Rhône, 2007 is the greatest vintage I have tasted in my thirty years working in that region. I think of 2007 as a hypothetical blend of an opulent, powerful, sumptuous year such as 1990, and a cooler draught vintage such as 2001. The cool weather and the remarkable three weeks of Mistral in September that concentrated the grapes without any spikes of high heat appears to have given the 2007s an aromatic dimension and freshness that I have rarely witnessed. Combine that with wines that are substantial, powerful, and relatively high in alcohol, with super depth of fruit! These are very aromatic wines of great concentration, freshness, laser-like focus, and amazing purity as well as depth. It is the vintage of my lifetime for this region, and I don’t say that lightly.”
There is probably no better way to introduce you to Domaine Roger Sabon than to quote Robert M. Parker from his book ‘Wines of the Rhône Valley’ (Simon & Schuster 1997). After all, their 1988 vintage was the first Châteauneuf-du-Pape to receive a perfect 100 rating from Mr. Parker.
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The-Sabon-team: at the table from the left -
Denis, Gilbert and Jean-Jacques Sabon.
Standing from the left: Didier Négron, Delphine
and Julien Sabon.
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“Roger Sabon is one of the more intellectual and forward-thinking vignerons in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Perhaps because the Sabon name has been associated with Châteauneuf du Pape since the early seventeenth century, he seems more concerned about the future than many vignerons. ... Sabon is a traditional winemaker. He has moved toward raising his red wines in small oak casks (all old since he does not like the effect of new oak). After having been pressured by his oenologist and European clients to do more fining and filtering, Sabon decided to make a qualitative rather than business decision, and for the last half decade or so has refused to filter any of his wines. In fact, he is an outspoken critic of the oenologists who consistently advocate an intense filtration, not recognizing that it can harmfully remove much of the aromatics, body and flavours of a wine. … This estate has been making exceptionally high-quality wines for years, but recent vintages seem to have risen to a new level of quality. Moreover, Sabon’s wines have not yet been discovered by the masses, so prices are surprisingly reasonable. Readers should be also be aware that Roger Sabon produces a very delicious Côtes du Rhône and Lirac from vineyards holding those appellations.”
The next Sabon generation, brothers Jean-Jacques, Denis and Gilbert are in the process of handing over the helm to the succeeding generation, Didier Négron, Delphine and Julien Sabon.
The Domaine Roger Sabon Wines on Offer
We are delighted to offer you the 2008 Rhône By Roger Sabon, the 2007 Lirac “Chapelle de Maillac, the 2007 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Olivets and the 2007 Châteauneuf du Pape Réserve. Each comes in a six-bottle case. We will be taking your orders for these exceptional wines to the LCBO on Friday, August 21.
2008 Rhône By Roger Sabon – 13.5% Alc. by Vol. $20/$120 case
I have to admit that I didn’t think too much of this wine when I first tried it a couple of months ago. It had just been bottled and we had had it flown over for a special tasting. I won’t scare you with my tasting notes – suffice it to say it did not perform well. Could the fact that it had just been bottled and subjected to a most arduous series of international flights have caused our disappointment? Could it possibly recover with some time in the cellar? In a word … sorta!
We tried it again a couple of weeks ago and you would never have known it was the same wine. The colour had deepened into a bright ruby. Where there was virtually no aroma before, it showed a lovely nose of red fruit (strawberries) with hints of leather and candied cherries. But what a surprise in the mouth! It was very pleasant – delicate actually with the cherries persisting accompanied by plums, a bit of pepper and exotic spices. It was not like a classic Côtes du Rhône but more like (dare I say it?) … a Beaujolais. This is a very nice, feminine, light wine that will not disappoint. It is made from 8o% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and was aged in oak foudres for about five months. I will be acquiring a couple of cases to go with roast chicken, pork roasts and everyday sipping. Won’t you Join me?
2007 Lirac “Chapelle de Maillac” - 15.0% Alc. By Vol. $28/$168 case
The “Chapelle de Maillac” is made from 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Cinsault. It is aged in oak foudres for about six months.
Robert Parker notes that Domaine Roger Sabon is one of only five “Excellent” Lirac producers. He goes on to say, “A sleepy village next to Tavel, Lirac appears to be emerging from the shadows of oblivion. More and more of the top estates are producing better and better wines.” My notes … magenta in colour, an awesome nose of sweet raspberries and perfume and a hint of pepper, amazing, wonderful in the mouth, very long with a beautiful smooth tannic structure. Limited availability, great stuff. Please order now.
2007 Châteauneuf du Pape “Les Olivets” – 14.5% Alc. by Vol. $46/$276 case
“Les Olivets” comes from an 8.5 ha. plot of vines averaging 40 to 60 years of age. It is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and is aged in oak foudres for six to eight months.
Robert Parker - “The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Olivets is Provencal, displaying notes of roasted herbs, licorice, sweet black cherries, and pepper. Filled with seductive fruit and glycerine as well as a heady, long finish, it should be enjoyed over the next 10 to 12 years. Rating: 90-92/100.”
I think Mr. Parker has under-valued this wine. I have tried it twice from the casks (assembled) and found it to be simply wonderful. I didn’t pick up much licorice, but I did find a delightful note of pomegranate in both the nose and mouth. Parker said, “seductive fruit and glycerine”. My notes say, “sweet, luscious fruit.” No matter how you say it, this is one amazing wine for the price. Get yours now.
2007 Châteauneuf du Pape “Réserve” – 14.5% Alc. by Vol. $55/$330 case
“Réserve” comes from a small 3 ha. piece of land with vines averaging sixty to seventy-five years of age. It is made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsault and is aged for twelve months in oak barrels ranging from two to four years of age.
Robert Parker – “The dark ruby/purple-tinged 2007 Châteauneuf Reserve is one of the finest yet made by the Sabons. With notes of root vegetables, figs, tobacco leaf, roasted meats, kirsch liquor, and black currants, this is a broad, deep substantial, long heady Chateauneuf that should evolve for fifteen or more years. Rating: 90-93/100.”
Steven Tanzer (International Wine Cellar) – “Ruby red. Intensely floral scents of raspberry, lavender, magnolia and garrigue. Palate-coating red berry flavours are firmed by juicy acidity and complicated with smoky herbs and a sweet floral pastille quality. Finishes broad and precise, with supple tannins and considerable depth. This is one for the cellar. Rating: 92-95/100.” Order a classic Châteauneuf du Pape now.
Please note that there is a $1 per bottle handing fee included in the above prices.
If you know any fanciers of superb Châteauneuf, we would appreciate it if you would pass this note on to them.
Cheers!
Jim and Hélène
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
hbuisson@ofrance.ca
