In late September we visited Amélie Barrot and her brother-in-law Frédéric Maillet (head wine-maker) at Vignobles Mousset Barrot (VMB) to sample the latest vintages of their Châteauneuf du Pape and Côtes du Rhône wines and to plot a special wine and food pairing dinner that we will be hosting along with Frédéric next March. Vignobles Mousset Barrot is an old and well-respected estate in the heart of Châteauneuf du Pape (see Selections for background information or visit www.vmb.fr) that produces Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages under the Château du Bois de la Garde label and Châteauneuf du Pape under the Fines Roches (Château and Cuvée) and Château Jas de Bressy (recently acquired property) labels.

Frédéric Maillet, your humble taster and scribe and Amélie Barrot at Vignobles Mousset-Barrot central

What great fun it was to compare and contrast the vintages, to try the different styles of Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc from Châteaux Fines Roches and Jas de Bressy and to determine if the Côtes du Rhône Villages was really better than the plain Côtes du Rhône. And, as I tasted, Hélène got caught up on all of the local news – once again the perfect division of labour was in action.

It was very difficult to pin down just a half dozen wines for this offering. But, after much deliberation, not to mention tasting (hey, somebody has to do it!), I was able to arrive at the following selection. I have concentrated on the very good 2006 vintage because it is drinking quite well right now while the 2007s (we will feature them next year) are still closed. Each of the wines comes in a six-bottle case and as a special treat you can get one of each wine in the VMB Sampler case created just for our wine club. We will be taking your orders for these fine wines to the LCBO on Friday, November 6.

2006 Château du Bois de la Garde Côtes du Rhône - 14.0% Alc./Vol.                            $20 bottle/$120 case of six
This little charmer is made from 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 12% Carignan and small amounts of Cinsault, Counoise and Mourvèdre. The vines used to make this expressive Côtes du Rhône average fifty years of age and the vineyards are just across the road from the Châteauneuf du Pape designated appellation (same soil; just situated on the wrong side of the tracks as it were). It is a medium ruby colour with fresh raspberries, leather, white pepper and just a hint of petroleum on the nose. Unoaked, it displays good balance, medium body and soft tannins in the mouth and is quite long. This is a versatile, elegant wine that will go well with most meats and cheese. Order some of this easy drinking wine now.

2006 Château du Bois de la Garde Côtes du Rhône Villages - 15.0% Alc./Vol.               $22 bottle/$132 case of six
This is a very serious Côtes du Rhône Village that many would swear was a very decent Châteauneuf du Pape! It is comprised of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah from vines averaging fifty years of age. It is a medium purple colour and displays powerful aromas of raspberries and strawberries along with nuances of liquorice, white pepper and resin. This is a very elegant wine with great length that combines the freshness of the Côtes du Rhône with the structure of a Châteauneuf du Pape. It will go beautifully with roasts, meats flavoured with thyme and rosemary and a wide array of cheese. I think this wine is clearly worth the two more dollars compared to the Côtes du Rhône. Select some for your drinking pleasure now.

2006 Château Jas de Bressy Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc – 13.6% Alc./Vol.                  $48 bottle/$274 case of six
White Châteauneuf du Pape you say? Yes indeed. While only a small proportion of the total production of Châteauneuf du Pape is white, it is a glorious and special treat. And, the 2006 Château Jas de Bressy Blanc is a fine example. Made of equal parts white Grenache and Roussanne from vines averaging over sixty years old, it is aged in two and three year old oak barrels for nine months. It is a golden straw colour with a lovely, pronounced nose of pineapple, coconut and peaches with a hint of butterscotch and spices (nutmeg?) on the nose. In the mouth it is round, full, complex and beautifully balanced. My tasting notes conclude with one underscored word – wonderful! Get some of you very own, wonderful white Châteauneuf du Pape now.

2006 Château Fines Roches Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge - 14.5% Alc./Vol.                  $35 bottle/$210 case of six
First rate Châteauneuf for under $40? Rare, but it happens. The 2006 Château des Fines Roches is made of equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre from forty year old vines. The wine is aged for a year in two to three year old oak barrels. It is a deep ruby and displays aromas of sweet red fruit, exotic spices and a delicate note of vanilla. It is pleasant in the mouth, exhibiting soft, round tannins, medium body and length. This wine can be drunk now, after a few hours in the decanter or in eight to ten years when it will develop aromas of cocoa beans and more vanilla. It would be delightful with game or a coq au vin – and with Black Forest cake or any other chocolate dessert! Order your bargain Châteauneuf now.

2006 Château Jas de Bressy Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge - 15.0% Alc./Vol.                  $48 bottle/$274 case of six
I really like this classy wine. Made from 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre from vines averaging over eighty years of age, it has been aged for eighteen months in two and three year old oak barrels and foudres. It is a deep ruby red and offers elegant aromas of red fruit, pine, leather, a hint of chocolate and vanilla. In the mouth it is beautifully round, full and long with silky tannins and lots of fruit. I think it tastes great right now, but this wine will age gracefully for another two decades or more. It would be splendid with game or any other rich, red meat. My concluding tasting notes – terrific, superb! Latch on to some for you cellar (or immediate drinking pleasure if you can’t wait – wouldn’t blame you).

2005 Cuvée Fines Roches Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge - 14.5% Alc./Vol.                     $60 bottle/$360 case of six
The Cuvée Fines Roches is the flagship of the VMB fleet. 2005 was a terrific vintage in southern France and it shows in this big, brooding Châteauneuf du Pape. Made from equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre from the best fruit of the forty year old vines, it saw twelve months of aging in two and three year old oak barrels and foudres. It is a dark ruby colour and exhibits powerful aromas of exotic spices, red berries and a delicate hint of vanilla on the nose. In the mouth it is full and round with great finesse and structure. The tannins are quite pronounced which indicates good aging potential although it tastes pretty darn good right now with a few hours in the decanter. It would be a delight with any hearty stew or wild game. Here is what Robert Parker says about it in the October 2007 Wine Advocate:

“The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape (white label) may be the finest wine Fine (sic) Roches has made in many years. Displaying a combination of elegance, purity, and dense, concentrated, juicy blackberry and sweet black cherry fruit, earth, roasted Provencal herbs, and smoke, this wine has low acidity, sweet tannin, full body, and a precocious appeal. It should drink beautifully for 10-12+ years. 90/100.”

Add some of this wonderful wine to your collection.

VMB Sampler Case                                                                                                        $39 bottle/$234 case of six
Having a hard time deciding which of these wonderful wines to choose? Why not try one of each with the VMB Sampler Case? You get one bottle each of : the 2006 Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages from Château du Bois de la Garde; the 2006 white and red Châteauneuf du Pape from Château Jas de Brassy; the 2006 Châteauneuf du Pape Château Fines Roches, and; the 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Fines Roches. Order your Southern Rhône six-pack now.

Want to try some great Italian wine for a super cause??
ViNO della ViTA is coming to town on Monday, November 2, 2009. The gala Italian wine and food tasting event will be held at Roy Thompson Hall from 6:30 to 9:30 PM with proceeds going to the Heart & Stroke Foundation for Stoke Recovery. You will get a chance to try over one hundred exceptional Italian wines served by the vintners themselves along with some superb Italian cuisine. Check it out at the Heart & Stroke website. Hope to see you there.

We have just returned from glorious southern France and so have our 30 delighted guests who spent one of three weeks with us enjoying all that Provence has to offer. The weather was nearly perfect (great for Rosé by the pool), the friendships blossomed and a great time was had by all (including us). Now Hélène is working on up to three different itineraries for September 2010 including a ladies only week centered in the lovely town of Uzès and a ‘Slow Week in Provence’ with the stately bastide near Avignon as the base. We will be sure to let you in on delicious details as soon as she has her plans in place. Don’t hesitate to get in touch with Hélène if you would like some advance information or would like to arrange an advance booking.

O!France guests enjoying the ochre town of Roussillon

Please pass this bulletin on to anyone you think would be interested in some excellent southern Rhônes, would like to attend the Heart & Stroke ViNO della ViTA or would like an update on Hélène’s O!France preparations.

Many thanks and cheers,

Jim and Hélène
jaswalker@arthursellers.com
hbuisson@cogeco.ca
www.arthursellers.com